Monday 1 June 2026

Day 37 of walking
Wembury to Bigbury-on-Sea
Distance: 21.32kms
Total distance: 737.04kms
Climbing: 747m
Total climb: 24, 574m

We knew today would be an interesting day and it turned out that way. We woke to low level mist and a forecast of rain in the afternoon. The swimming togs were packed away and instead the rain coats came out. This was scheduled to be a 24.5 kilometre day which is getting a bit long for us at this stage. We already had to add another kilometre to this to get from the B & B back to the Coast Path. There were also critical times involving two river crossings. We researched and devised an alternative route to shave a few kilometres off this.

After getting back on the path it was only 2 kilometres to Warren Point on the bank of the River Yealm. Here there was a seasonal ferry across to Noss Mayo. The first sailing was not until 10am and we arrived about 9.30. Another couple had been waiting since 8.45. Another 3 people turned up before 10. This ferry was interesting in that it was electric – an e-water taxi. It glided silently through the water like a sail boat. A 10 minute ride for £5 each.

At the Noss Mayo landing the Coast Path goes to the right and a walk around the coast and two headlands. Our new route went to the left on a road through the village of Noss Mayo, inland on a narrow road, over a hill on a public path through a wood to emerge on another narrow road which twisted and turned and eventually rejoined the Coast Path at Revelstoke. Our inland route was 2.8 kilometres and the coastal route was about 7 kilometres so we saved a bit there. I had made a little hand drawn map with notes, as it was not straight forward with other public paths and roads criss-crossing it and we didn’t want to get lost. We were pretty pleased as it worked a treat.

Another obstacle we hadn’t planned on was in a farm field. We were to enter the field through a corner gate and walk diagonally across and exit by another gate. Between the gates were about 50 steers. As soon as they noticed us, they all ran over and crowded us into the corner of the field. They came right up until they were bumping into us. It was a bit unnerving for two city slickers. We held our ground and started pushing back against them. We were able to push our way through the herd and hastily made our way out the other gate. They were not fully grown, we were taller than them, and they were not as big and bulky as some of the cows we have pushed around.

The mist enveloped everything and we hardly saw anything of the coast. It was easy walking though. The next obstacle was crossing the River Erme. There is no ferry or bridge here so you have to ford the river. Otherwise you have a very, very long walk around the estuary, or a very expensive taxi ride via the first road bridge. The Erme has a wide estuary and you can easily walk across the sand and wade through the shallow water an hour each side of low tide. Timing was on our side as today low tide was at 1.30pm and we arrived at 1.20pm. The shoes and socks came off (Barbara left her socks on) and we were across in a few minutes. The water was a bit cold and the river bed a bit stony but not a problem. The mist was starting to become more like drizzle so we sat in a recess under a cliff to dry our feet and have lunch.

The last 8 kilometres from the river to Bigbury-on-Sea were the hardest of the day. The only big climbs of the day were in this section and for the last 3 kilometres it rained heavily. Occaisonally we could see the coast, a beach or holiday park. At the very end out of the rain and mist Burgh Island suddenly appeared. This island is close to the shore and at low tide you can walk out there on a sand bar. At high tide they have very high tractors and trailers that go to and from the island. It has an upmarket 1920s art deco hotel which has appeared in many films and novels.

We arrived in Bigbury-on-Sea cold and wet at 4pm. Today was another taxi transfer day. At 5pm we were to be picked up and driven half an hour to Salcombe to our B & B. The meeting point was in a bus shelter on a beach front road. In Salcombe the B & B was again in suburbia, a long way from the town and no places nearby to get an evening meal. At the end of the day we didn’t fancy having to walk into town to find a pub. We hadn’t seen anywhere in Bigbury-on-Sea to eat but a kind gentleman directed us to the Venus café, hidden behind a sand dune on the beach. We ordered some wraps and a hot drink and sat in the warm café until just before 5 when we went back to the cold bus shelter.

The taxi arrived at 5pm and the driver was quite chatty so the drive to Salcombe passed quickly, and it was warm and dry. Tomorrow morning the taxi will take us back to Bigbury-on-Sea and we walk here to Salcombe. We have two nights here at the Fo’c’sle B & B, a standard bland suburban house. The owners don’t live here, they reside nearby. There is one other guest and his dog here tonight.

Quite a day. White out, an electric water taxi, frisky steers, wading across a river, cold and wet. Just another day on the Coast Path.