Category Archives: SCWP 2026

Sitting in a tin can

For here, Am I sitting in a tin can
Far, above the world
Planet Earth is blue
And there’s nothing I can do

Thank you to Major Tom and David Bowie

36 hours from walking out the door of our apartment until walking into our hotel room.
23¼ hours sitting in a tin can and the remaining getting to and from airports and lay overs.

We hadn’t even reached Wellington Airport before we were receiving emails, txts and Facebook posts from each of Air NZ and the Flight Centre informing us that our flight to Auckland was delayed 20 minutes. In fact it was 35 minutes which was a bit of a worry as our lay over in Auckland was only 1 hr 55 mins. 1 hr 20 minutes is easy enough time for us to walk from domestic to international, do border control, security and get to the gate. But what about our bags? Twice before our bags have not made the connection due to delays and tight connections. When we kissed our bags goodbye at Wellington the next time we would see them is at Heathrow London.

As it happened our flight from Auckland to Vancouver was delayed 30 minutes. I wondered if they were waiting for our luggage. The 13 hour flight was full but a reasonably smooth comfortable flight. It departs in the evening and after an hour you get a meal and then it is lights out until an hour before landing when you get breakfast. So those times work well with your normal sleeping pattern. We both slept on and off through the night.

Vancouver International is a huge complex. There are basically three separate terminal areas. One for those entering Canada for domestic connections, buses, trains, hotels, meeting friends etc. A second for those connecting to the United States and a third for those connecting to the rest of the world – that’s us. The terminal is modern, multi-layered, and full of artwork and crafts. Our section had at least 50 gates and 50 stores and drinking and eating outlets. And it was almost empty and very quiet. Hardly anyone around and lots of comfy places to sit or lay down and it was very calm and relaxing. There was even an outdoor “serenity area” where you could get outside and breathe the fresh but cool Vancouver air. There were views to north and the snow-capped mountains and Vancouver down town in the distance. We had six hours to fill in here but it passed quite quickly.

Border control getting in was fast and easy with an e-passport and a Canada eTA. No security to go through.

The flight from Vancouver to Heathrow was delayed 25 minutes. I was thinking, a 35 minute delay, then a 30 minute delay, then a 25 minute delay. If we kept flying around the world and each flight was delayed 5 minutes less, in five flights we should get one that left on time. This 9 hour 10 minute flight also left in the evening and the same routine. A meal after an hour, lights out, breakfast an hour before landing. All the meals were pretty average. The best thing about them is they help to pass the time.

The flight path from Vancouver goes north east to Hudson Bay, then over the southern tip of Greenland, south of Iceland, across Ireland and Dublin and meets England at Liverpool, then south to London. This is hard to imagine on a flat map but is pretty much a straight arc when you see it on a globe.

Landing in Heathrow we had a couple of nagging doubts in the back of our heads.

Would our bags make it with us? If they were two or three days behind us and we were down in Minehead starting 63 days of one night stops would they ever find us? But they did arrive and we were mighty relieved when they flopped out of the chute and onto the carousel. It is so easy entering the UK these days. Show your e-passport to the machine, look at the face recognition camera, the little glass gates fly open and you are in. Collect your baggage and walk out the exit.

The other doubt was entry into the UK. In February the UK Government brought in new rules so that people who had UK passports (even if expired long ago) or were UK citizens, had to enter the UK with a current UK passport. They were no longer allowed to enter with say a NZ passport (being dual citizens) and a UK eTA (electronic travel authority). This caused an outcry as it took considerable time and money to renew a UK Passport, especially if you lived outside the UK. Their government then relented a bit and if you were a dual citizen you could use say a NZ passport , with UK Eta and an endorsement embedded in the e-passport to say you were a dual citizen and could enter that way. However this also took time and for reasons only a bureaucrat could fathom cost even more.

There was a further complication in determining just who is a UK citizen. What about children born outside the UK but had a parent born in the UK? This is the case for Kevin, Owen and I. Our mother was born in Glasgow in 1922 and emigrated to NZ in 1924 with her parents and siblings. She was a UK citizen but never had a UK passport (probably came to NZ as a two year old on her parents passport, if they had one). She never used her UK citizenship and travelled to say Australia as a NZ Citizen on a NZ passport.

If our father had been born in the UK we would automatically have UK citizenship. But back in the day men and women did not have equal status. As our mother was the parent born in the UK we are only eligible to apply for citizenship. Only eligible because it depends on her birth date and various UK Acts of Parliament passed at different times in relation to women.

Don’t take this as gospel it is just what I picked up from the media, reading the relevant UK Govt Websites, and a very good question and answer article by the UK High Commissioner in Wellington. She made it clear there is an important distinction between “automatic” and “eligible” citizenship. If “automatic” you have to use the new system. If “eligible” you can use your existing NZ passport and a UK eTA. Apparently it is the airlines responsibility to not allow anyone to fly into the UK without the correct documents.

No one said boo as I passed through border control at Vancouver and Heathrow so I am all oaky.
We have made it to our hotel, with baggage, not too shattered, happy and healthy.

 

SWCP 2026 ITINERARY

 Day 1 Wednesday April 15th
Airport Express bus Courtenay Place to Wellington Airport
Fly Wellington (WLG) to Auckland (AKL), Airbus A320-200 1hr 5mins
Air New Zealand NZ468, depart 5.00pm, arrive 6:05pm
Emissions: 53.38 kg CO2
Transfer to International Terminal
1hr 55min layover
Fly Auckland (AKL) to Vancouver (YVR) Int. Terminal, Boeing 787-9, 13hrs
Air New Zealand NZ24, depart 8:00pm, arrive 2.00pm local time (Wednesday April 15th)
Emissions: 575.32 kg CO2
6h 10m layover
Fly Vancouver (YVR) to Heathrow (LHR), Boeing 777-300ER, 9hr 10mins
Air New Zealand NZ4824, operated by Air Canada, depart 8,10pm local time
Emissions: 409.76 kg CO2

Day 2 Thursday April 16th
Arrive Heathrow London T2 (LHR) 1.20pm local time
Local red bus routes 105,111,140 Heathrow Terminal to
ibis London Heathrow Airport Hotel

Day 3 Friday April 17th
Day in ibis London Heathrow Airport Hotel

Day 4 Saturday April 18th
Local red bus routes 105,111, 140 ibis hotel to Heathrow London Bus Terminal
National Express Bus 502 Heathrow Terminal T2 & T3 London to Taunton
Depart 11.30am, arrive 14.45pm
First Buses of Somerset Route 28 Taunton to Minehead
The Parks Guest House
www.parksguesthouse.co.uk

Day 5 Sunday April 19th
Day in Minehead
The Parks Guest House
www.parksguesthouse.co.uk

Day 6 Monday April 20th
Walk Minehead to Porlock                                                                14kms
The Ship Inn (Porlock Weir)

Day 7 Tuesday April 21st  
Walk Porlock to Lynmouth                                                                18kms
North Cliff Hotel
www.northcliffhotel.co.uk

Day 8 Wednesday April 22nd
Walk Lynmouth to Combe Martin                                                 22kms
Poplars Hotel
www.poplarsguesthouse.co.uk

Day 9 Thursday April 23rd
Walk Combe Martin to Woolacombe                                          22kms
The Wollacombe Bay Hotel
www.woolacombe-bay-hotel.co.uk

Day 10 Friday April 24th
Walk Woolacombe to Braunton                                                      24kms
Silver Cottage B & B
www.bedand breakfast-braunton.co.uk

Day 11 Saturday April 25th
Walk Braunton to Instow                                                                    20kms
Instow Barton
www.instowbarton.co.uk

Day 12 Sunday April 26th
Walk Instow to Westward Ho!                                                        18kms
Waterfront Inn
www.waterfrontinn.co.uk

Day 13 Monday April 27th
Day in Westward Ho!                                                                             0km
www.waterfrontinn.co.uk

Day 14 Tuesday April 28th
Walk Westward Ho! To Clovelly                                                    18kms
Red Lion Hotel
www,clovelly.co.uk

Day 15 Wednesday April 29th
Walk Clovelly to Hartland Quay                                                     16kms
Hartland Quay Hotel
www.hartlandquayhotel.co.uk

Day 16 Thursday April 30th
Walk Hartland Quay to Morwenstow                                        13kms
The Bush Inn
www.thebushinnmorwenstow.com

Day 17 Friday May 1st
Walk Morwenstow to Bude                                                              12kms
Sea Jade Guest House
www.seajadehouse.co.uk

Day 18 Saturday May 2nd  
Walk Bude to Crackington Haven                                                16km
Coombe Barton Inn
www.coombebarton.co.uk

Day 19 Sunday May 3rd   
Walk Crackington Haven to Tintagel                                          18kms
King Arthurs Arms Inn
www.kingarthuresarms.co.uk

Day 20 Monday May 4th
Walk Tintagel to Port Isaac                                                               15kms
Old School Hotel
www.theoldschoolhotel.co.uk

Day 21 Tuesday May 5th
Day in Port Isaac                                                                                        0km
www.theoldschoolhotel.co.uk

Day 22 Wednesday May 6th  
Walk Port Isaac to Padstow                                                              19kms
Old Custom House
www.oldcustomhousepadstow.co.uk

Day 23 Thursday May 7th   
Walk Padstow to Porthcothan                                                         21kms
Transfer Porthcothan forward to Newquay
Great Western Hotel
www.greatwesternnewquay.co.uk

Day 24 Friday May 8th
Transfer Newquay back to Porthcothan
Walk Porthcothan to Newquay                                                      17kms
www.greatwesternnewquay.co.uk

Day 25 Saturday May 9th  
Walk Newquay to Perranporth                                                      18kms
St George’s Country House
www.stgeorgesperranporth.com

Day 26 Sunday May 10th                                    
Walk Perranporth to Portreath                                                      19kms
Transfer Portreath back to Perranporth
St George’s Country House
www.stgeorgesperranporth.com

Day 27 Monday May 11th  
Transfer Perranporth forward to Portreath
Walk Portreath to St Ives                                                                    30kms
Western Hotel
www.hotelstives.com

Day 28 Tuesday May 12th   
Day in St Ives                                                                                              0km
www.hotelstives.com

Day 29 Wednesday May 13th  
Walk St Ives to Zennor                                                                         10kms
Transfer Zennor back to St Ives (us on bus)
www.hotelstives.com

Day 30 Thursday May 14th   
Transfer St Ives to Zennor (us on bus)
Walk Zennor to Pendeen                                                                   13.7kms
The North Inn
www.thenorthinnpendeen.co.uk

Day 31 Friday May 15th
Walk Pendeen to Sennen Cove                                                      15kms
The Old Success Inn
www.oldsucess.co.uk

Day 32 Saturday May 16th
Walk Sennen Cove to Porhtcurno                                                11kms
Sea View House
www.seaviewhouseporthcurno.com

Day 33 Sunday May 17th   
Walk Porthcurno to Penzance                                                        18kms
Long Boat Inn
www.longboatinn.co.uk

Day 34 Monday May 18th
Walk Penzance to Porthleven                                                          22.6kms
Artist Loft
www.theartistloft.co.uk

Day 35 Tuesday May 19th
Walk Porthleven to Lizard                                                                 23.5kms
The Caerthillian B & B

Day 36 Wednesday May 20th
Day in Lizard                                                                                                 0kms
The Caerthillian B & B

Day 37 Thursday May 21st
Walk Lizard to Coverack                                                                     17.8kms
Fernleigh B & B
www.fernleighcoverack.co.uk

Day 38 Friday May 22nd
Walk Coverack to Mawman Smith                                                 26.4kms
Trelawne Hotel
www.trelawnehotel.co.uk

Day 39 Saturday May 23rd
Walk Mawman Smith to Falmouth                                                11.7kms
Membly Hall Hotel

Day 40 Sunday May 24th
Walk Falmouth to Portloe                                                                  22kms
Jago Cottage B & B
www.cornwallcottages.co.uk/cottages/jago-cottage-veryan-4237.html

Day 41 Monday May 25th
Walk Portloe to Mevagissey                                                             20kms
Mandalay Hotel

Day 42 Tuesday May 26th
Walk Mevagissey to Par                                                                     17kms
Transfer Par inland to St Austell
Boscundle Manor
www.boscundlemanor.co.uk

Day 43 Wednesday May 27th
Transfer St Austell back to Par
Walk Par to Polperro                                                                             23.5kms
Transfer Polperro forward to Looe
Hannafore Point Hotel
www.hannaforepoint hotel.com

Day 44 Thursday May 28th
Day in Looe                                                                                                  0kms
www.hannaforepoint hotel.com

Day 45 Friday May 29th
Transfer Looe back to Polpero
Walk Polperro to Portwrinkle                                                          21kms
The Liscawn
www.liscawn.co.uk

Day 46 Saturday May 30th
Walk Portwrinkle to Plymouth                                                        21kms
Admiral’s House – Bistrot Pierre Hotel
www.bistrotpierre.co.uk/rooms/residenceone/

Day 47 Sunday May 31st
Walk Plymouth to Wembury                                                           12kms
Wembury Bay B & B
http://wemburybedandbreakfast.yolasite.com

Day 48 Monday June 1st
Walk Wembury to Bigbury-on-Sea                                              24.7kms
Transfer Bigbury-on-Sea forward to Salcombe
The Fo’c’sle B & B
www.bedandbreakfastsalcombe.co.uk

Day 49 Tuesday June 2nd
Transfer Salcombe back to Bigbury-on-Sea
Walk Bigbury-on-Sea to Salcombe                                                22kms
The Fo’c’sle B & B
www.bedandbreakfastsalcombe.co.uk

Day 50 Wednesday June 3rd
Walk Salcombe to Torcross                                                               20kms
Transfer Torcross inland to Chillington
Chillington House
www.chillingtonhouse.co.uk

Day 51 Thursday June 4th
Day in Chillington                                                                                    0km
Chillington House
www.chillingtonhouse.co.uk

Day 52 Friday June 5th
Transfer Chillington to Torcross
Walk Torcross to Dartmouth                                                            16kms
The Royal Castle Hotel
www.royalcastle.co.uk

Day 53 Saturday June 6th
Walk Dartmouth to Brixham                                                            18kms
Transfer Brixham forward to Torquay (us by bus)
Devon Court B & B
www.devoncourt.co.uk

Day 54 Sunday June 7th
Transfer Torquay back to Brixham (us by bus)
Walk Brixham to Torquay                                                                 13.5kms
Devon Court B & B
www.devoncourt.co.uk

Day 55 Monday June 8th
Walk Torquay to Shaldon                                                                  18.5kms
Potters Mooring Hotel
www.pottersmooring.co.uk

Day 56 Tuesday June 9th
Walk Shaldon to Exmouth                                                                 13.5kms
The Dolphin Hotel
www.dolphinhotelexmouth.co.uk

Day 57 Wednesday June 10th
Walk Exmouth to Sidmouth                                                             20.9kms
Hunters Moon Hotel
www.huntersmoonhotel.com

Day 58 Thursday June 11th
Walk Sidmouth to Beer                                                                      13.7kms
Durham House B & B
www.durhamhouse.co.uk

Day 59 Friday June 12th
Day in Beer                                                                                                  0kms
Durham House B & B
www.durhamhouse.co.uk

Day 60 Saturday June 13th
Walk Beer to Lyme Regis                                                                   14.4kms
Transfer Lyme Regis back to Beer
Durham House B & B
www.durhamhouse.co.uk

Day 61 Sunday June 14th
Transfer Beer forward to Lyme Regis
Walk Lyme Regis to Bridport                                                          20kms
Tiger Inn
www.tigerinnbridport.co.uk

Day 62 Monday June 15th
Walk Bridport to Abbotsbury                                                         18kms
Swan Lodge
www.swan-lodge.net

Day 63 Tuesday June 16th
Walk Abbotsbury to Weymouth                                                    25kms
The Redcliff B & B
www.redcliffweymouth.co.uk

Day 64 Wednesday June 17th
Walk Weymouth to Lulworth                                                          18kms
The Castle Inn
www.castleinn-lulworth

Day 65 Thursday June 18th
Walk Lulworth to Swanage                                                               34kms
The Pines Hotel
www.pineshotel.co.uk

Day 66 Friday June 19th
Walk Swanage to Poole                                                                     12kms
Acorns
www.acornsguesthouse.co.uk

Day 67 Saturday June 20th
National Express Bus 035 Poole to Heathrow London T2
Depart 12.25pm arrive, 15.05pm

Local red bus routes 105,111,140 Heathrow Terminal to
ibis Styles London Heathrow

Day 68 Sunday June 21st
Local red bus routes 105,111,140 ibis Styles Hotel to Heathrow Airport
Fly Heathrow London (LHR) to Vancouver (YVR), Boeing 777-300ER, 9hr 35mins
Air New Zealand NZ4839, operated by Air Canada, depart 3.05pm, arrive 1.40pm.
Emissions: 407.34 kg CO2
4hr 15min layover
Fly Vancouver (YVR) to Auckland (AKL), Boeing 777-300ER, 13hr 50min
Air New Zealand NZ23, depart 8.55pm
Emissions: 672.34 kg CO2

Day 69 Monday June 22nd
Lost in space

Day 70 Tuesday June 23rd
Arrive Auckland (AKL) 5.45am,
Transfer to domestic terminal
2hr 25min layover
Fly Auckland (AKL) to Wellington (WLG), Airbus A320-200
Emissions: 53.39 kg CO2
Arrive Wellington (WLG) 9.20am

Airport Express bus Wellington Airport to Courtenay Place
Walk home

 

I have a dream

On August 28 1963, on the steps of the Lincoln Memorial in Washington DC, before a crowd of 250,000, Martin Luther King Jr, civil rights activist and Baptist minister, gave one of the most iconic speeches in American history. “I have a dream …..”

In early November 2025 Barbara also had a dream. “I have a dream ….. to re-walk the full South West Coast Path”. This was a much less iconic speech to an audience of just one. I was somewhat stunned and without thinking accepted the challenge and replied “I’m up for it”.

We had been vaguely thinking about walking the Camino Portuguese Inland Route having walked the Camino Portuguese Coastal Route in 2024. This would have been a mainly flat walk of about 280 – 300 kilometres and we could have done it fairly comfortably.

The South West Coast Path is in a different league. 1014kms from Minehead in Sommerset to Poole in Dorset and about 4 Mt Everests of climbing. A longer walk than any of our previous adventures:

2016 Camino Frances 800kms over 34 days
2017 Ireland 500kms over 23 days
2018 SWCP Westward Ho! to Plymouth 510kms over 30 days
2019 SWCP Minehead to Westward Ho! and Plymouth to Brixham                 280kms over 13 days
2023 SWCP Brixham to Poole 265kms over 15 days
2025 Camino Portuguese 300kms over 17 days.

Add to this the fact that we are now 10 years older than when we walked the Camino Frances.

Initially I think we were trying to call each other’s bluff but a seed had been sown and we started to think about it more seriously. In mid-November we decided to do walks on four consecutive days of over 20kms. This was not to see how fit we were but to see if our feet, ankles, knees, hips, shoulders etc were still up to doing reasonably long walks day after day. Amazingly at the end of this little test we felt good and strong and confident we could take on the big challenge.

Before we knew it we had made an enquiry with Macs Adventure and they were putting together a 63 night, 64 day itinerary for the full South West Coast Path. 54 days of walking with 8 “rest” days. A “rest” day built in about every seventh day. As we have walked every inch of the SWCP before, we have a different attitude this time. There are a couple of long days, 34 and 30kms, which are too much for us when they involve a lot of climbing. On these days, and also when the weather is atrocious, or we are just tired or injured, we will get the bus or a taxi for part or all of the day. We just want to enjoy ourselves and survive!

We also want to make our rest days, real “rest” days. In the past these days have often been more strenuous than our walking days. For example in Padstow we spent the day cycling the Camel Trail, in St Ives we spent the day at the Barbara Hepworth Museum and the Tate St Ives Gallery, at Marazion we climbed all over St Micheal’s Mount, at Charlestown we got the bus inland to the Eden Project, at Exmouth we got the train to Exeter to visit their magnificent cathedral, at Dartmouth we did a day excursion on river boat/train/ vintage railway, etc. This time our rest days are mainly in small towns or hamlets and hopefully we will be forced to just relax, have a coffee, go for a swim, and maybe write some better blog.

By the 11th February we had paid Macs Adventure a hefty deposit so they would proceed with the detailed booking of 63 nights of accommodation and all the luggage transfers. Then things got a little bit complicated. On 28th February just as we were about to make flight bookings from Wellington to Heathrow, Trump and Netanyahu launched their war against Iran. We usually go via the middle east, Dubai (on Emirates) or Doha (on Etihad) to get to Europe but flights through these places were immediately stopped due to the war. For the dates and times we wanted, flights through Singapore and Hong Kong quickly sold out. We had a preference not to go through China or India and definitely not through the USA. Eventually our travel agent secured us flights Wellington/Auckland/Vancouver/ Heathrow. The same returning in reverse. Of course due to the chaos in the airline industry the cost of flights had risen a couple of thousand dollars.

An essential requirement when travelling to most countries these days is an eTA, an Electronic Travel Authority. This is basically an electronic visa for the country you are visiting and you apply on line or on a phone app before you leave home. We applied for an UK eTA and a Canada eTA. One was required for Canada even though we were transiting for just a few hours. The UK eTA cost $38.64 each and the Canada eTA cost $ 8.94 each.

So now we are counting down the days. During the day it is very exciting and we can’t wait to get walking. In the middle of the night it seems intimidating and we wonder what on earth we have got ourselves into.

My next post will be our full itinerary.

PS recently King Charles III officially opened the England Coast Path. This is 2,700 miles all around the coast of England and the South West Coast Path forms 630 miles of it. There is an existing Wales Coast Path of 870 miles and a theoretical Scotland Coast Path of 6,330 miles. This is a total of 9,900 miles, or 15,840 kms, around Great Britain. If you averaged about 20 kms per day it would take 2 years with no rest days! In future Barbara can keep her dreams (nightmares!) to herself.