Saturday 30 May 2026

Day 35 of walking
Portwrinkle to Plymouth
Distance: 22.15 km
Total distance; 699.51 km
Climbing: 661 m
Total climbing: 24,057 m

The Tamar River (at Plymouth) is the border between Cornwall and Devon. When we reached the Cremyll Ferry at Mount Edgcumbe today we were crossing over into South Devon. So long Cornwall, it’s been good to know you. We have loved all 30 days of our relationship. Cornwall has a magnificent and varied coastline, The wild, remote, barren cliffs of the north with the weather coming in off the Atlantic, a surfer’s delight, with the gems of Padstow and St Ives. Once you turn the corner at Land’s End and the Lizard, the lush, warmer, protected beaches of the south, with its own gems, Mousehole, St Michael’s Mount, Mevagissey, Polpero.  There are reportedly 49 fishing villages in Cornwall and we have walked through them all, although I forgot to count.

When we left The Liscawn this morning the lovely lady of the manor, Fiona, showed us how to get back on the Coast Path by crossing a couple of fields and hence not having to retrace our steps to Portwrinkle along the busy roads. Almost immediately we came to the massive fortress of Tregantle Fort. This is one of a series of forts built along the south coast to protect Royal Navy ports from attacks by the French. This one was built in the 1850s and is still a military fort and firing range today, It is fenced off and has only a few entry points. The Coast Path normally runs through the fort but if there is firing underway the gates are locked,  red flags are flown and an alternative route along the road must be used. This is what happened to us in 2018 so we had not seen the fort. Today the gates were unlocked and the red flags were furled and we walked right through the firing range, but not actually into the fort.

For the next 10 kilometres there was a lot of walking on a narrow road high above the sea, populated each side by a line of small holiday cottages. This road is a bus route and service road for farms and very busy with people going to the seaside on a sunny Saturday. At one point we came to a tight narrow corner where a double decker bus confronted a combine harvester with a line of cars behind each. There was no way they could pass and there was a lot of shouting and cursing as cars and the harvester had to back up a considerable distance to a wider section of road. The bus driver just sat there. He was the biggest and bulkiest and everyone else had to move for him. It is amazing the number of people who can drive forward competently but are absolutely hopeless at reversing any distance.

At last we got off the road and onto a nice path through woodland to Rame Head. This is a prominent, but not very high headland with a lovely old 14^th century chapel at the top. It is dedicated to St Michael and a priest would stay there and keep a beacon burning for passing ships. From Rame Head to Plymouth was the easiest and gentlest 10 kilometres we have walked so far. A smooth dirt path, slightly downhill, often through woodland with views down to the sea. Near the end we passed through the twin villages of Cawsand and Kingsand. Each with a sheltered little beach, narrow streets and alleyways and a surprising number of pubs, all busy today.

The last section of walking was through the Mount Edgecumbe Park, a large area with lakes, grottos, follies, statues, chapels, ruins and a large old mansion on a hill. The highlight was the formal gardens with conservatories and an orangery (1775). An orangery is like a conservatory but with solid masonry walls and a glass dome in the middle, originally used to protect citrus fruit. The orangery today was being used for a wedding and garden visitors were asked ‘to be respectful’ so we spent our time in the wonderful gardens.

The Tamar River is crossed on a little passenger ferry, £3 per adult and takes about 7 minutes to get to Royal William Yard. These are former Royal Navy dock buildings built in the 1800s when Britain’s Imperial maritime power ruled the world. It was a major victualing depot for the navy and supplied food and drink with butchers, bakers, brewers, slaughterhouses, grain mills and stock piled rum, beer and vinegar as well as storing clothing, small arms and naval spares. Today it is a bustling, award winning destination with apartments, hotels, cafes, restaurants, pubs, boutique shops, galleries and a marina. Tonight we are staying in a hotel which was once The Admiral’s House. A beautiful house regenerated into 11 unique and individual rooms. In front of the hotel is a large grass quadrangle surrounded by galleries and cafes. Tonight we ate at the Bistrot Pierre and we will have breakfast there tomorrow. Part of staying at The Admiral’s House was a complimentary glass of wine at the Bistrot Pierre and so for the very first time on this walking trip we had some alcohol.

For those of you who want to know, Barbara had honey glazed pork medallions, seasonal greens, dauphinoise potatoes, caramelised apple and onion chutney, red wine jus. I had Chicken Normandy, chicken breast, Toulouse sausage, apples, dauphinoise potatoes, Calvados jus.

We have been to Royal William Yard before and will have another look around tomorrow morning before we leave Plymouth on yet another ferry, crossing over the River Plym from the Mayflower Steps Memorial to Mount Batten.