Beatitudes of the day :

Blessed are you pilgrim, when you don’t have words to give thanks for everything that surprises you at every twist and turn of the way.

Blessed are you pilgrim, if you search for the truth and make of the “camino” a life and of your life a “way”, in search of the one who is the Way, the Truth and the Life.

Another quiet day through gently rolling farmland heading for the large town of Estella which was founded in the twelfth century specifically as a rest and refuelling stop for pilgrims.

We left Puenta la Reina and crossed its magnificent twelfth century Romanesque six arch bridge. The wife of King Sanchez III ordered the bridge to be built over the River Arga to allow safe crossing by pilgrims. Hence Puenta la Reina – Queens Bridge.

The land is very fertile, if very stoney. As the day wore on we passed through more and more vineyards and orchards of olive trees. There were four towns nicely spaced between Puenta la Reina and Estella, unfortunately they were all located on top of hills so a few gentle climbs and descents.

One of the highlights of today was walking on a fine example of a Roman roadway complete with a single arch Roman bridge. It’s amazing to reflect on walking the same stones millions have walked on for about two thousand years. Actually the road is a little lumpy and the Romans should be asked to come back and do some maintenance they have been neglecting.

75% of today was on natural tracks through the countryside but several times we had to cross under the motorway that connects Pamplona to Estella. All the subways were graffitied with Basque separatist slogans, mostly in Basque but some in English. At one stage we walked under a modern concrete aqueduct carrying water across a valley.

Today Barbara managed to successfully decipher the instructions on the little screen on a coffee dispensing machine. The machine reluctantly delivered a coffee in a cup complete with spoon in it. Unfortunately there were about three teaspoons of sugar in the bottom. The machine could do without or with milk of varying amounts, without or with sugar of varying amounts and umpteen types of coffee.

Clare was asking how Barbara’s Spanish is going. She says it is terrible and is giving much amusement to whoever it is inflicted on. But she is far too hard on herself. I think it is fantastic. She fearlessly uses it on shop assistants, hotel receptionists etc. They always try and use English but Barbara persists and so they speak simply and slowly and communication is very good.  In Zubiri while we were sitting by the river she had a very long conversation in Spanish with a very kind elderly gentleman who helped her with pronunciation and the correct choice of the sense of a word. Even though English (and French) are widely used on the Camino she believes everyone should make some attempt, however feeble, to speak the local lingo.

There are many pleasant little touches to walking the Camino. One of them is that there are villages at regular intervals along the way and every village has a church. Every church has a belfry, and every belfry has bells that are still used to tell the time. The bells now have electrical /mechanical clappers but it is so nice to hear the bells ring out over the valleys.

Ipod theme tune for today is the Rolling Stones :

If you start me up I’ll never stop
I’ve been running hot,
You’ve got me ticking gonna blow my top

Today’s Beatitudes:

Blessed are you pilgrim, if your knapsack is emptying of things and your heart does not know where to hang up so many feelings and emotions.

Blessed are you pilgrim,if you discover that one step back to help another is more valuable than a hundred forward without seeing what is at your side. 

Another day in paradise. Or at least another clip on our ticket to paradise.

It took an hour to get out of Pamplona. About 15 minutes through the old town, deserted except for street cleaning trucks hoovering up the detritus from last night’s party, and the delivery vans that are allowed in for a short time to service the shops. Then street after street of apartments in the “new” town and finally through the park like university.

Looming up ahead of us was the Alto del Perdon. A long but not arduous climb through farmland with a rise of 350m. There were fields of wheat, rape seed and other silage crops. By the side of the path were thistles and red poppies. Along the skyline there was a gargantuan line of 40 wind turbines.

About half way up the climb we stopped at a tiny village and bought a coffee and a potato and onion omelette filled bocadillo.  The usual filling is ham and cheese, both cut so thinly they are transparent. We have found that if you get the omelette bocadillo, wrap it up tightly in paper and let it stew in your pack for a couple of hours, then the razor sharp crust softens up.

At the summit you are right under the swoosh, swoosh, swooshing turbines. There are marvellous views back down to Pamplona and on the other side the Arga Valley where we are heading. At the top of the path, right on the skyline is a steel sculpture of life size pilgrims in silhouette. The sculpture was commissioned by the owners of the turbines and some believe it is a cynical sop to public opinion as the turbines sort of destroy the atmosphere of the Camino. I think it is really cool.

At the sculpture it sort of works if people arriving spend a couple of minutes in front of it to have their photo taken, and then step aside. Two French cyclists arrived and promptly propped their bikes against the sculpture and took photos of themselves, then each other, then look at the view, then shot a little video, then had a little chat, some more photos etc for about 10 minutes and then wandered off to read some information boards. Everyone else had to have their fricking bikes in their photos. I was watching this and getting really pissed off with them. One came near Barbara and in perfect French she asked him to please shift his bike. He was actually very good, immediately saw the issue, apologised and moved the bikes. Once again Saint Barbara came to the assistance of the pilgrims. No wonder there was a statue of her in that nuns’ chapel the other day.

The walk down the other side was a steep rocky path but surrounded by dozens of varieties of wild flowers in blue, lavender, white and yellow. This is the best time on the Camino for wild flowers. We stopped and ate our now softened up bocadillo. The rest of the day was spent walking through fields of peas, broad beans, asparagus, olives and grapes.

Near the end of the day I convinced Barbara that we should do a detour that would add an hour, to see one of the most important Romanesque monuments in Navarra. It is a beautiful little octagonal church dating from about 1170. It is thought to be associated with the Knights Templar and based on the Church of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem. Unfortunately it was closed on Mondays but still worth the extra effort to see the exterior.

The region we are passing through is Navarra which is Basque. The Basque are fiercely independent, sometimes violently so. Historically they have fought everyone, the Moors, the Francs, the Castillians. Even though the Basque Country has a lot of autonomy there is still a separatist movement. We see graffiti on buildings and walls saying “This is not Spain”  and “Welcome to the Basque Country”.

One of the problems I am having is that I am walking too fast. Barbara is always telling me to slow down. On a journey of a million steps it is important to pace yourself and most of all to walk softly.

So the Ipod theme song for today was from Simon and Garfunkel: Feeling Groovy

Slow down you move too fast, you’re got to make the morning last. . .

Beatitudes of the day :

3 – Blessed are you pilgrim, when you contemplate the “camino” and you discover it is full of names and dawns.

4 – Blessed are you pilgrim, because you have discovered that the authentic “camino” begins when it is completed.

When we woke this morning we felt we wanted to get out on the road again. We saw many of those who had started with us in St Jean Pied de Port making there way out of the city. It was a bit sad knowing we wouldn’t see most of them again. There is quite a comraderie that builds up with the people you see everyday.

Instead we explored the old town. Pamplona is an expanding, vibrant university city with a population of about 200,000. It dates from the 1st century BC and has a long and dramatic history of seiges, occupations, sackings, destruction, fires and rebuilding (several times). It is located on a high, defensible bluff with elaborate and sophisticated fortifications. Much of these survive and are now public parks with some for example having moats drained and now occupied by deer and peacocks.

Our hotel is located in a side street just a few metres from the main square, Plaza del Castillo. This is a huge open space with arcades and canopies shading the shops, bars and cafes around the perimeter. When we arrived last evening it was packed with people out enjoying the entertainment in the afternoon sun. There was music, an old fashioned Punch and Judy show, string puppets dancing to Elvis, very loud marching street bands, many buskers and entertainers.

After the peace and silence of walking in the countryside for three days the sudden vibrancy and noise was quite startling.

This morning the square was very different. It was set up for the running of a half marathon. Barricades, loud speakers, banners and hundreds of super fit looking athletes, male and female. I don’t know what level it was but there were a lot more elite level looking runners than The Round the Bays Fun Run. They were all beautifully turned out in the latest colour co-ordinated Lycra. We guessed a field of about 500.

Pamplona is known of course for the running of the bulls made famous by Ernest Hemingway who visited here many times from the 1920s to the 1950s. There is quite a Hemingway cult with all the bars and hotels he frequented cashing in on his name. The Cafe Iruna has a life size brass statue of him leaning up against the bar in a corner. There is also a counter culture with one bar having a sign announcing that Hemingway never drank there.

Each year in July, Pamplona selebrates it’s patron, San Fermin, by running bulls through the streets and then holding bull fights. Both bulls and steers run and the steers get to run another day, but the bulls run just once to their death in the bull ring. Hemingway’s celebration of this festival made it world famous and turned it into the touristy, overcrowded, drunken rite of passage it is today.

At the end of a long day on the road pilgrims are starving and want a meal. The Spanish custom is that after the afternoon siesta they work a few more hours before coming out in the evening to relax. The restaurants will serve drinks but will not serve meals before about 10pm. This is hopeless for tired and hungry peregrinos.

Fortunately there are dozens of bars that sell tapas. Often if you buy a drink the tapas are complementary. We have taken a liking to tapas. They are cheap and there is a huge range from the simple to the very elaborate. The Navarra region we are in is renowned for the quality and variety of its produce so the tapas are delicious. Most of the time we haven’t a clue what we are purchasing but that just adds to the fun.

A bit cold today and drizzly at times with a strong wind. Twelve degrees at lunchtime but it improved to nineteen later in the afternoon.

i pod theme song for today is from Willie Nelson.

On the road again, I just can’t wait to get on the road again.. . . . .  . . . . .

We only use our walking poles when descending steep slopes that are slippery or have large rocks. Otherwise they are just a frickin nuisance to carry. My pack has an outer pouch and velcro strip to take my poles. Barbara’s pack doesn’t have this. I can carry her poles in the outer pocket of my pack as it has two zips and by bringing one zip up from each side the poles can protrude through a gap between them at the top.

This works okay for a while but as I walk the zips slide down and the poles flop about. I have been looking for two days for a piece of string to tie the toggles of the zips together. Yesterday we were walking along brain storming different options, a lace from my boots, the draw string from my laundry bag, platting Barbara’s sewing cotton, cutting the hem off a handkerchief, etc. We were running out of ideas when there on the path in front of us was a piece of blue twine, the perfect length and diameter.

There is a saying on the Camino “whatever your need, the Camino will provide”.  The authors of some of the books we have read on the Camino would have launched into a hole chapter on the spiritual significance of this piece of string. As we walked on we noticed more and more pieces, and then saw that a farmer had used a hole ball of it to do running repairs to a broken fence. But was it just a coincidence?  Hmm.

Today the walk from the industrial town of Zubiri to the city of Pamplona was a walk of two halves. Just out of Zubiri we passed a huge bleak magnesite industrial plant but once beyond this it was a tranquil walk along the River Arga under a canopy of trees. There were several small villages and some drinking fountains where we could top up our water bottles. The water from these fountains is always refreshingly cold.

We did a slight detour up the side of a hill to Zabaldika to visit the 13th century church of San Esteban. This is beautifully renovated and run by the nuns of the Society of the Sacred Heart. There is a very fine altarpiece which contains many detailed statues including one of St Barbara. The nuns encourage you to climb up the very narrow stone spiral staircase to the belfry where you can each ring the bell once. This is to send your prayers out over the valley.

The second half is along busy main roads leading into the city. For a distance of about 600m you walk on a narrow shoulder with no footpath . On the outskirts of Pamplona you cross a magnificent medieval stone bridge and then through about 5km of suburban streets before crossing another pilgrim bridge and climb up around the old city walls and through a gate with draw bridge and enter the historic city.

Pamplona is a legendary fortified city full of history and deep-rooted traditions. The city of the running of the bulls during the San Fermin Festival (July 6 to 14) made famous by Ernest Hemingway in his novel The Sun also Rises. We have a “rest” day here tomorrow so will go and explore.

We discovered another popular pilgrim food today. Potato omelette which you buy as a wedge. This is nice and soft after the mouth shredding bocadillo of yesterday.

It started out very grey and overcast this morning and several times there were spots of rain but we didn’t put our raincoats on and by the time we reached Pampalona it was bright and sunny.

The nuns of the Society of the Sacred Heart gave us a handout with the 10 Beatitudes of the Pilgrim. So for the next few days we will share these with you.

1 – Blessed are you pilgrim, if you discover that the “Camino” opens your eyes to what is not seen.

2 – Blessed are you pilgrim, if what concerns you most is not to arrive, as to arrive with others.

Today was a bit of a struggle when it shouldn’t have been. It was a lovely walk in the woods. We felt quite lethargic and for three reasons :

Tired from yesterday’s big effort

Not adjusted to local time, wide awake at 4am

Two much red wine for dinner last night.

No sore bodies, just not much energy.

20kms, passing through four small villages, lots of undulations but generally heading downhill with a steep descent over the last 3km into Zubiri. Most of the time we were walking in forest, ideal conditions, cooler and a slight wind.

There are no public toilets so far on the Camino. It is accepted in the villages that you can just walk into a cafe or bar, use the conveniences and walk out. This would not be tolerated at home. When we want a loo stop we buy a coffee for the privilege of using their facilities. The problem is that this means a  loo stop a bit further up the road.

Early today we walked through a particularly beautiful forest. The leaves were lit by the low angle of the sun and were a very bright almost lime shade of green. As we emerged at the edge of the forest there was a large white stone cross. Apparently some nastiness had occurred here in the 16th century. Nine women were accused of having a witches coven in the forest and were burnt at the stake. People used to wear little white crosses as protection from witches spells. The white stone cross was erected to ward off any spells that might still be in the forest. We passed through safely and the “witches of oak wood” did not get us.

As you enter Zubiri you cross an ancient stone bridge, Puenta de la Rabies . It has two large arches, one either side of a thick central column. The story is that if you walk your animals three times round the central column they will be free of rabies. I bet the vets like that.

We caught up with a group of four loud Australian (oxymoron?) guys in their forties or fifties. Barbara started to quizz them on why they were walking the Camino. My suggestion that they were actually four priests was met with uproarious laughter and a few crude comments. Barbara’s suggestion that they had been sent by their wives was met with silence.

Walking is usually very peaceful. Just the crunch of your footsteps, the click, click of the walking poles, clong, clong of the cow bells, some birds and the rustle of the breeze in the trees. Then the travelling circus of the above four Aussies comes up behind you. You let them pass and quickly tranquillity returns.

We arrived at our hotel at about 1.30 but they weren’t quite ready for us and asked us to come back at 2. This suited us as we were hungry and wanted some lunch. At a cafe we bought two bocadillos. These are half a length of crispy bread stick  with an omelette inside, usually with ham but any filling you like. They are everywhere and good filling food for walking. The problem is they have a very crusty, jagged top to them which unless you are very careful rips shreds off the top of your mouth. We have duly been initiated into the pilgrim experience.