Portwrinkle to Plymouth, 23 km, 661m climbing

‘Hope is the dream of a walking man’

Our last day of walking started out not so good but got better and better as we progressed to our final destination, Plymouth. We woke to thick, low mist although the forecast was for this to clear later in the day. From the Little Fox we had to find our way back to the path, a distance of about 1km. This involved walking along a road then diagonally crossing a couple of fields. On a bright sunny day this would have been easy but in the whiteout mist I got a bit disorientated and was wandering around fields with bales of hale randomly emerging from the murk. Eventually we found a road, I wanted to go left, Barbara was sure we should go right. This time she turned out to have a better sense of direction than I did. Walking on the road was nerve racking in the white out. There was no shoulder or footpath and cars and trucks would come flying out of the mist. We could hear them coming long before they suddenly were in front of us.

The next obstacle was the gunnery ranges at Tregantle Fort (military area). If a red flag is flying it indicates the ranges are being used, all the gates are locked and an alternative path along the road must be used. No flags were flying today so we could use the off-road path through the fort. From here the path flirted with minor tarmac roads and a cliff side trail past wooden holiday chalets.

The highlight of the day came at Rame Head. This was the only climb of the day and was a gentle one. At the summit, emerging from the mist was a lovely little chapel, dedicated to St Michael. The building dates back to the 14^th century and is built on the site of an even earlier Celtic hermitage. A priest would stay here and keep a beacon burning for passing ships.

We knew we were getting closer and closer to Plymouth as more and more ships started appearing in the sea off to our right. Yachts, a tanker, a warship, ferries. The walk was very, very easy on a gentling sloping wide path, mostly through woodland. We passed a little grotto and chapel and a ruined Folly Tower – built in the 19^th century for Princess Adelaide (wife of William IV, and the women after whom Adelaide in South Australia is named). The last section to Cremyll was through Mount Edgecumbe Park with its historic house and gardens and the national camelia collection.

At Cremyll we caught the ferry across the River Tamar to Admiral’s Hard, Stonehouse, in Plymouth. This was a ten minute journey and half way across we passed from Cornwall into Devon. The river being the boundary. A ferry has been operating here since 1204. Presumably not the same boat.

So we have reached Plymouth and the walk is over. We always have mixed feelings at this stage. Happy to have accomplished our goal. Sorry it has ended. Happy to not have to put on our filthy walking shoes tomorrow. Sorry the simple rhythm of eat, walk, sleep is over. Happy to rest our weary bodies. And in about two days time sorry we can’t go and do it all over again.

It has been a really happy trip, a fun trip because we spent a lot of time doing things we really like. It was challenging at times but never too challenging. We feel quite proud to have completed over 500 km of a walk that has many sections classified as strenuous and some classified as severe.

Traditionally this section ends at the Mayflower Steps so tomorrow morning we will go and find them and then we will have officially finished. But we won’t be in our smelly shoes and walking clothes.