Day 9 on the meseta

Not a very interesting day today but we enjoyed ourselves none the less. From Mansilla de las Mulas the path was straight out of town and was adjacent a busy road. A constant flow of traffic. Most of the time the path was separate from the road but occasionally we had to walk on the shoulder.

Early on we saw some unusual geological formations off to our right. Large mounds of earth that had been pushed up from the plateau. At our coffee stop we enquired and found out they are colinas – hills. I vaguely remember hills from the distant past. I may have cycled some at home. Apparently we will cross a few more today, and in the coming days, and they will get bigger and be called montanas , mountains.

It is actually a relief to get off the plateau and go over some undulating ground. The legs seem to work better when there is some variation going up and downhill. The unchanging regular stride on flat ground is just so tiring. I may regret saying this in a few days.

The approach to Leon is like any city. Winding in through the detritus of electricity pylons and sub stations, motorway flyovers, petrol stations, wreckers yards, used car yards, hectares of boring warehouses, truck stops. It seems to go on forever. No more wild flowers, even they don’t like being here. Maybe just a few thistles and lupins. An ever increasing drone of noise. Vehicles, machinery, sirens, horns and hammering. The meseta was so beautiful and peaceful.

We know people (they will not be named, what happens on the Camino stays on the Camino) who got a cab today. And we saw others getting on the bus. Their souls will be examined and their weakness bared for all to see at the gates of Santiago de Compostela. A few times today we thought it was a good idea.

You wouldn’t believe it, after crossing the last flyover and entering the city proper there was a large hospital alongside the path, and part of it was an asylum. I imagined the yellow arrows leading right in to Admittance. Plenty of room in the albergue from which you can never leave.

Trudging through the residential suburbs we ran out of oomph. Emotionally as much as physically and took refuge in Restaurante Scorpio. Refuelled with a scorpio burger and freshly squeezed orange juice, a sit down with the shoes off for a while, and a trip to the servicos. All the time we were there a woman stood at the only poker machine and fed it coins.

Finding your hotel in a city is always a bewildering experience. Like walking through a maze with continuous distractions of sights, sounds and smells. In towns and cities we have taken to not immediately trying to find the hotel as soon as we hit town. It is amazing how poor your decision making is with low sugar levels. We now find a cafe or park and have something to eat, get our bearings and usually do much better. We are also not supposed to check in before 2pm so if we are early it helps to fill in the time.

We are now in Leon and have our third and final rest day here tomorrow before a thirteen day push to Santiago. Leon is also the third cathedral city we visit (others: Pamplona and Burgos), the fourth will be Santiago.

Leon was a Roman military garrison and base for its VIIth Legion, hence the name – Leon from Legion.

Because people have slightly different itineraries due to how far they walk each day, we have got out of step with some of our friends. However most people are in Leon tonight so we have been in contact by email and will try and meet for dinner tonight.

Ipod theme tune for today: Hotel California by the Eagles

Last thing I remember, I was
Running for the door
I had to find the passage back
To the place I was before
“Relax” said the night man,
We are programmed to receive,
You can check out any time you like,
But you can never leave.