We only use our walking poles when descending steep slopes that are slippery or have large rocks. Otherwise they are just a frickin nuisance to carry. My pack has an outer pouch and velcro strip to take my poles. Barbara’s pack doesn’t have this. I can carry her poles in the outer pocket of my pack as it has two zips and by bringing one zip up from each side the poles can protrude through a gap between them at the top.

This works okay for a while but as I walk the zips slide down and the poles flop about. I have been looking for two days for a piece of string to tie the toggles of the zips together. Yesterday we were walking along brain storming different options, a lace from my boots, the draw string from my laundry bag, platting Barbara’s sewing cotton, cutting the hem off a handkerchief, etc. We were running out of ideas when there on the path in front of us was a piece of blue twine, the perfect length and diameter.

There is a saying on the Camino “whatever your need, the Camino will provide”.  The authors of some of the books we have read on the Camino would have launched into a hole chapter on the spiritual significance of this piece of string. As we walked on we noticed more and more pieces, and then saw that a farmer had used a hole ball of it to do running repairs to a broken fence. But was it just a coincidence?  Hmm.

Today the walk from the industrial town of Zubiri to the city of Pamplona was a walk of two halves. Just out of Zubiri we passed a huge bleak magnesite industrial plant but once beyond this it was a tranquil walk along the River Arga under a canopy of trees. There were several small villages and some drinking fountains where we could top up our water bottles. The water from these fountains is always refreshingly cold.

We did a slight detour up the side of a hill to Zabaldika to visit the 13th century church of San Esteban. This is beautifully renovated and run by the nuns of the Society of the Sacred Heart. There is a very fine altarpiece which contains many detailed statues including one of St Barbara. The nuns encourage you to climb up the very narrow stone spiral staircase to the belfry where you can each ring the bell once. This is to send your prayers out over the valley.

The second half is along busy main roads leading into the city. For a distance of about 600m you walk on a narrow shoulder with no footpath . On the outskirts of Pamplona you cross a magnificent medieval stone bridge and then through about 5km of suburban streets before crossing another pilgrim bridge and climb up around the old city walls and through a gate with draw bridge and enter the historic city.

Pamplona is a legendary fortified city full of history and deep-rooted traditions. The city of the running of the bulls during the San Fermin Festival (July 6 to 14) made famous by Ernest Hemingway in his novel The Sun also Rises. We have a “rest” day here tomorrow so will go and explore.

We discovered another popular pilgrim food today. Potato omelette which you buy as a wedge. This is nice and soft after the mouth shredding bocadillo of yesterday.

It started out very grey and overcast this morning and several times there were spots of rain but we didn’t put our raincoats on and by the time we reached Pampalona it was bright and sunny.

The nuns of the Society of the Sacred Heart gave us a handout with the 10 Beatitudes of the Pilgrim. So for the next few days we will share these with you.

1 – Blessed are you pilgrim, if you discover that the “Camino” opens your eyes to what is not seen.

2 – Blessed are you pilgrim, if what concerns you most is not to arrive, as to arrive with others.