We did not do justice to Ponferrada. This morning we walked around the great medieval castle erected (1248 – 1282) by the Templars. It was not open yet so could not go in. In most towns and cities the yellow arrows we follow do not take the direct route but do a zig zag, dog leg, back tracking path that goes along the fortified walls, through gates, across bridges, by churches and museums, into all the main squares, etc. A mini walking tour of a city. This is what we saw of Ponferrada.

It is a modern city of 69,000 and has a unique micro climate that produces fine wines and is a fertile fruit and vegetable growing area. We left the city via the iron bridge, Pons Forrata, which gives the city its name. The original bridge has been reinforced with iron since the 11th century. Coal and iron ore have been mined here since medieval times.

After walking in the shade along the river and through a very upmarket suburb we stopped for food. Breakfast had been coffee, juice and one piece of toast. We were starving and downed a huge quarter of potato, egg and vegetable tortilla. For two hours we then walked through small market garden plots. Most were small operations say a quarter to a half acre and all very neat. Lots of people were out working the soil and their crops. The farmers were very cheerful with a wave or a hola. You could imagine them coming to the farmers’ market on Saturdays with their produce. This was the best part of the day and it was cool and peaceful.

At midday it was getting hot and we were looking for some shade to have a rest. At a road crossing we spied a grove of trees, a water fountain and a group of peregrinos, and decided to join them. Then we saw the best thing of all. A farmer was selling cherries, 1 euro for a third of a kilo. He was very, very popular. By now the small gardens had given way to huge vineyards and flash looking wineries. It was like this for the rest of the day.

The last two hours from midday were very hot and we were walking on the edge of the road. Where the path did leave the road and went through the vineyards it was lined with sweet smelling roses and near the end of the day, cherry trees. The trees were fully laden with fruit but it was not quite ripe. I wonder if they were planted specially for the pilgrims?

After yesterday’s 10km of downhill we discovered we had new interesting muscles. We don’t like them. They are whingers. They complain all the time. We tell them to shut up and go away. After a while they did. Only to be replaced by some of their whinging friends. These friends are even worse.

Being from temperate Wellington we can do the hills, the wind, the rain and the cool, but our achillies heel is the heat. Anyone planning to walk the Camino Frances in the Spanish summer needs to do some careful planning. For the last two days the temperature has got up to 30. In a month this will rise to 40. If the high temperatures continue we will consider forsaking our prepaid breakfast and start leaving at 6am. Getting the walking done by lunchtime makes it much more pleasant.

This evening Barbara realised we had not had any bananas today. Bananas are our go to snack when we are walking. We try to have one for breakfast and our packs usually have two more each to eat during the day. Any fruit you could possibly want is readily available everyday but bananas work for us.

Ipod tune for today: Yes we have no bananas. By Louis Prima

We have old fashioned tomato
A Long Island potato
But yes we have no bananas
We have no bananas today .

What a day! Man oh man this was a tough day. The toughest so far. But also one of the best. We really did feel we were knocking on heaven’s door today. Left the hotel in Rabanal at 7.45 this morning and arrived at the hotel in Ponferrada at 4.45 this afternoon. 9 hours, an hour off for stops, 8 hours to do 32km over difficult terrain and on a hot day.

From Rabanal it was a climb of 400 metres over 7km to Cruz de Ferro at 1505m. This was a wonderful climb in the cool of the morning through heather, broom, oaks and flowers. Not a cloud, not a breath of wind. We grew to hate that. We were in great spirits the views to the surrounding mountains and back down the valley were amazing. The path was rough and rocky but okay to walk up. We grew to hate that.

After a quick stop for coffee at an alpine village we soon arrived at Cruz de Ferro. This is such a humble monument but marks one of the most significant points on the way to Santiago. A simple iron cross stands atop a weathered pole, now surrounded by a huge pile of stones. The pole and the cross has become one of the abiding symbols of the pilgrim way of St James. The tradition is to bring a stone from your home, or somewhere earlier on your travels and deposit it here. At the same time to reconnect with the purpose of your journey. The stone is a token of love and blessing. We had each brought a stone from Raumati Beach and these are now on the pile. Probably already buried under hundreds of new stones.

A 7km walk across the tops to the true highest point of the Camino Frances at Alto Altar at 1,515m. It was now very hot with no shade from trees. There is an abandoned ruined village which has a population of 1. Manjarin hospitalero Tomas will bless pilgrims, play Gregorian chant, provide coffee. The sky was perfectly clear and we could see Ponferrada down in the valley about 20kms away. It is usually very misty up there so I think that was one reason we were enjoying the walk in the mountains so much.

Once we started to descend it became very slow and difficult. The track was possibly the worst we have had. Rough and rutted with lots of loose stones. Quite steep and walking poles were necessary. Barbara was worried about her knees so went very cautiously. It was 10km down to Molinaseca and it seemed to take hours. At one stage we managed to get off the track and use the road. Some of it was very pretty. In a little tree shaded valley we crisscrossed a stream and it could have been Wilton’s Bush.

At Molinaseca we had some orange juice and rested in the shade for a while. We were very hot and tired, it was 3pm and we still had 7km to go. The now concrete path followed a busy road through the outer suburbs of Ponferrada and was totally tedious. Out came the Ipods and with heads down just looking at the footpath in front of our feet we plodded on for nearly two hours.

We have now collapsed in our hotel room, not moving. The great medieval castle of the Templars is just 50 metres along the road and I can’t be bothered to move myself and go and have a look. It will have to wait till morning. Barbara meanwhile is fast asleep.

It was a great day, loved walking up in the clear air of the mountains and our knees and ankles came through a hard day unscathed.

Ipod tune today: Guns n’ Roses, Knockin’ on heaven’s door.

Knock, knock, knockin’ on heaven’s door
Knock, knock, knockin’ on heaven’s door.

What a difference a day makes. Yesterday was about 22km, a couple of small hills, but we arrived in Astorga a bit shattered after seeming to struggle with every step. Today was the same distance, a slight but steady climb all the way, probably less interesting than yesterday but we enjoyed every minute. What’s up?

We awoke to the plaza being set up with vans, trailers, tables, awnings etc for the Tuesday market. All the bar and restaurant tables, chairs and umbrellas had been moved out last night. I would liked to have stayed a couple of hours to watch from our balcony the set up and the market get under way.

We had breakfast with Trish and she is now over her foot issues and was feeling very happy and confident. We absorbed all her good vibes. The walk out of Astorga was lovely and cool, and quickly started the long slow climb we had all day. Mainly through what we would call scrubland, lots of broom and small scruffy trees.

Ahead of us and to the left was a mountain range with a little bit of snow left on the higher slopes. We will be crossing these mountains for the next few days. I think the mountains were helping make us feel so good after the flatness of the meseta. Near lunch time we stopped at the very, very sweet village of Santa Catalina de Somoza for a Zumo naranja, freshly squeezed orange juice, nectar from God. Some of the villages have the suffix Somoza which means under the mountains

While there we met Victoria and Craig who we hadn’t seen for a few days. They had a rest day in Astorga so were looking bright as a button. Picked up a whole bunch of good vibrations from them. Mind you they are always happy and positive – allowing for Craig’s very dry sense of humour.

An hour further on we also stopped in El Ganso which has a kitsch cowboy bar complete with guy in costume playing a banjo. He looked like Liberace wearing a sombrero. He didn’t want to be photographed, maybe he was too embarrassed. We went into what was signposted as a supermercado but turned out to be a bit of hippy heaven. Lots of lovely natural food, handmade trinkets, etc. Barbara bought a little scallop shell pendant, unbelievably made in Espagne, not China.

We ate under the shade of their verandah. The table next to us was covered in a log cabin quilt and hanging from the beam was a little timber hanging sculpture exactly like I make from driftwood at home. More feel good factor.

Apart from the cowboy bar and hippie heaven, El Ganso is a hauntingly crumbling village of collapsing thatch cottages. The first of a few we will pass through in the lonely mountains. These are semi-abandoned Maragota villages. Maragatos rang the bells at the Astorga town hall. Remember? Hope you’ve been paying attention.

Before we left home we had read the Camino in spring is the time for wild flowers. We had no idea what this really meant. I may have mentioned flowers before and maybe included a few in photos. Since St Jean we must have seen 100 different kinds of flowers, half we could recognise and half are completely new. For anyone interested in flora the Camino is the path to heaven. Now that we are getting into the mountains there is a whole new range of sub alpine plants to admire.

Near the end of the day we crossed a modest little bridge over a cool mountain stream. At first the stream looked as though it had islands of snow but looking closer it was thousands of tiny daisies. By now the scrub had changed to oak and pine forest. At the bridge was a tent shelter and a guy dressed in a medieval knight’s costume. On his shoulder was a hawk or a harrier. He was from the Asociacion Gaudisse who do charitable work to assist children. You could get a sello, stamp, for your Pilgrim’s Passport if you wished.

Which reminds me. Trish told us that this Saturday there is to be a jousting tournament at the Puenta de Orbigo we passed over yesterday. We saw the wooden lists, palisade and a spectator gallery on the grass beside the bridge and wondered if something was up. What a sight it would be to cross the bridge with a tournament happening alongside.

Tomorrow is one of our biggest days. 32 km and we climb to the highest point on the Camino at 1,515m. We will be tired peregrinos tomorrow night but hopefully it will be as good a day as today.

Of course today’s Ipod tune has to be The Beach Boys: Good Vibrations.

I’m pickin’ up good vibrations
She’s givin’ me excitation
Good, good, good vibrations.

We were a bit reluctant to leave the lovely mill cottage this morning. There were 11 of us staying there, 2 Italians, 2 from USA, 5 Australians and us. We all got on well and had a lovely meal last night and a leisurely breakfast this morning. The food was first class and all produced by the owner Mercedes and her husband.

Barbara was back in her boots today and the blister is so-so. Not getting any worse and hopefully getting better.

Shortly after setting out we came to the Puente de Orbigo one of the longest and best preserved medieval bridges in Spain. It is nineteen arches long and built in the thirteenth century. It carries you across the river Orbigo via the passage of honour Pasa Honroso so called because of the famous 1434 jousting tournament.

A noble night, Don Suero de Quinones, scorned by a beautiful lady, threw down the gauntlet to any knight who dared to pass as he undertook to defend the bridge and his honour. Knights from all over Europe took up the challenge. It became a huge event with royalty, the contestants and their retinue, the curious and thousands of pilgrims all present. Battle tents were pitched, pennants flew, music blared, bells rang, there were banquets and dancing in the flickering torchlight. The jousting went on for several weeks and Don Suero successfully defended the bridge. When 300 lances had been broken it was declared he had proven his fealty to his secret lady, he had defended his honour and was now a free man. He then did a pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela.

During the tournament Don Suero wore an iron collar around his neck as a sign that he considered himself bound to his lady. This collar can be seen in Santiago. I love all these stories of chivalry. It makes crossing yet another old stone arch bridge so much more interesting.

From the bridge we climbed over two reasonable hills which was welcome after the meseta. On the second hill we were on a partly built road. It was all formed and shaped and had the basecouse laid, so was easy to walk on. They were still working on culverts and drains etc so every now and then had to dodge trucks. It was a beautiful walk crossing dry river valleys and passing through woodland of Holm oak.

At the highest point we came to the Abode of the God’s, la Casa de Los Dioses, Cantina. Here David will show you his humble home and provide rest and shade, and free food, fruit and drinks. No donations accepted. This really was an oasis, Barbara says the water mellon was to die for after a long hot climb.

From there a descent down to Astorga where are now. Yet another lovely hotel in a beautiful town, population 12,000. We are on the second floor with a balcony out over the Plaza Espagne, one of several very popular plazas. To our right is the very ornate, Baroque town hall. In the bell tower are two dressed figures of Maragatos who have come out and rung the bell every hour since 1748. Maragatos are a mountain people from west of Astorga.

There is of course a magnificent cathedral, several smaller churches, monasteries, convents, museums (including a chocolate museum) and what I thought was very interesting, Roman ruins. These include what is thought to be a prison, a house and plaza with a large area of mosaic floor, well preserved Roman baths and the remains of the Roman sewerage system.

Astorga is also well known for its Bishop’s Palace. Antonio Gaudi designed this neo-gothic palace and it was constructed between 1889 and 1913. Gaudi was Spain’s most audacious practitioner of Art Nouveau architecture and design. He used innovative forms, exciting mixtures of stone, tile, glass, painting, sculpture and a strident use of colour. His most famous work, the cathedral of Sagrada Familia in Barcelona, commissioned in 1883, is still being completed.

A minor drama this afternoon. I left my Europe electrical plug adaptor in yesterday’s hotel. I tried many places but couldn’t find even a universal adaptor. Friggin siesta from 2 till 5 didn’t help. In the end the gorgeous young lady at reception directed me to an electrical shop, where I bought a Spanish plug and they replaced the NZ plug on my multibox. All for 2 euros and done on the spot while other customers patiently waited. I love the Spanish.

So now I can continue to charge the kindle, the Ipods, the phone, the tablet, the camera, the shaver, the toothbrush etc, etc. The joy of the modern traveller.

Ipod theme tune for the day: Nancy Sinatra’s These boots are made for walking.

These boots are made for walking, and that’s just what they’ll do,
One of these days these boots are gonna walk all over you,
Are you ready boots, start walking.

We were very keen to get back on the road again this morning. Leon is a beautiful and interesting city but we now love the quiet, slow rhythm of walking.

It took about 90 minutes to get out into the countryside. Mostly through residential suburbs so not as tedious as the entry through industrial and commercial areas.

St James was looking after us today. Rain was forecast and there were lots of dark clouds about. At lunchtime we were passing the village of Chozos de Abajo and just on the spur of the moment decided to take a detour and refuel in a cafe. We had only just got in when the heavens opened and it absolutely persisted down for about 15 minutes. When the sun came out we carried on. The sky to our left was black and far off we saw lightning and heard thunder. A few spots got us and we put on our ponchos for a while but we escaped. Barbara says St James wasn’t totally looking after us as there was no papel higienico in the senoras aseos.

Highlight of the day for Barbara was in the village of Vilar de Mazarife. We heard what sounded like someone on bagpipes warming up. In a side street we found a little band, all in traditional costume with bagpipes. I took a photo of them and one guy came running over to us to have his photo taken with Barbara. She thought he was very nice and smiley and stood very close. He smelled wonderful. We already new from one of our camino lady friends (who seemed to be an officionado on all things concerning Spanish men) that they like to smell nice.

North west Spain has a strong Celtic heritage as celts from central Europe settled here and the bagpipes are the traditional musical instrument of Galicia. The bagpipe is called a gaita from the Gothic word gait or gata meaning goat, as the bag of a gaita is made from a whole skinned goat hide.

Today was a long day – 32 kilometres including 10 km that we were scheduled to do tomorrow. At the 22km mark we had the option of going to bar Tio Pepe and phoning our cottage accommodation for a free pick up. Then tomorrow we could be driven back 10km. Or else just skip the 10km and start from here in the morning. We want to walk the full distance so decided to do the 10km today as we were relatively fresh after a rest day. We now have 10km less to do tomorrow. 32 km is the most we will do in a day and we have another one coming up. Today was pretty flat, a nice temperature and a gentle breeze.

We are in a lovely heritage country cottage out in the countryside. It used to be a mill and is built over a canal. Part of the dining room floor is a glass panel directly over the water. When we arrived we were sat down in a cosy living room and offered coffee, Rose wine and cake. There is accommodation for nine and it is very, very pleasant. A total contrast to the large monastery hotel in Leon. Although that was amazing as well. We are so not suffering the way the medieval pilgrims did!

Ipod theme tune for today: On the road again. This time by Canned Heat.

Well I’m so tired of crying
But I’m out on the road again
I’m on the road again