What a day! Man oh man this was a tough day. The toughest so far. But also one of the best. We really did feel we were knocking on heaven’s door today. Left the hotel in Rabanal at 7.45 this morning and arrived at the hotel in Ponferrada at 4.45 this afternoon. 9 hours, an hour off for stops, 8 hours to do 32km over difficult terrain and on a hot day.

From Rabanal it was a climb of 400 metres over 7km to Cruz de Ferro at 1505m. This was a wonderful climb in the cool of the morning through heather, broom, oaks and flowers. Not a cloud, not a breath of wind. We grew to hate that. We were in great spirits the views to the surrounding mountains and back down the valley were amazing. The path was rough and rocky but okay to walk up. We grew to hate that.

After a quick stop for coffee at an alpine village we soon arrived at Cruz de Ferro. This is such a humble monument but marks one of the most significant points on the way to Santiago. A simple iron cross stands atop a weathered pole, now surrounded by a huge pile of stones. The pole and the cross has become one of the abiding symbols of the pilgrim way of St James. The tradition is to bring a stone from your home, or somewhere earlier on your travels and deposit it here. At the same time to reconnect with the purpose of your journey. The stone is a token of love and blessing. We had each brought a stone from Raumati Beach and these are now on the pile. Probably already buried under hundreds of new stones.

A 7km walk across the tops to the true highest point of the Camino Frances at Alto Altar at 1,515m. It was now very hot with no shade from trees. There is an abandoned ruined village which has a population of 1. Manjarin hospitalero Tomas will bless pilgrims, play Gregorian chant, provide coffee. The sky was perfectly clear and we could see Ponferrada down in the valley about 20kms away. It is usually very misty up there so I think that was one reason we were enjoying the walk in the mountains so much.

Once we started to descend it became very slow and difficult. The track was possibly the worst we have had. Rough and rutted with lots of loose stones. Quite steep and walking poles were necessary. Barbara was worried about her knees so went very cautiously. It was 10km down to Molinaseca and it seemed to take hours. At one stage we managed to get off the track and use the road. Some of it was very pretty. In a little tree shaded valley we crisscrossed a stream and it could have been Wilton’s Bush.

At Molinaseca we had some orange juice and rested in the shade for a while. We were very hot and tired, it was 3pm and we still had 7km to go. The now concrete path followed a busy road through the outer suburbs of Ponferrada and was totally tedious. Out came the Ipods and with heads down just looking at the footpath in front of our feet we plodded on for nearly two hours.

We have now collapsed in our hotel room, not moving. The great medieval castle of the Templars is just 50 metres along the road and I can’t be bothered to move myself and go and have a look. It will have to wait till morning. Barbara meanwhile is fast asleep.

It was a great day, loved walking up in the clear air of the mountains and our knees and ankles came through a hard day unscathed.

Ipod tune today: Guns n’ Roses, Knockin’ on heaven’s door.

Knock, knock, knockin’ on heaven’s door
Knock, knock, knockin’ on heaven’s door.

What a difference a day makes. Yesterday was about 22km, a couple of small hills, but we arrived in Astorga a bit shattered after seeming to struggle with every step. Today was the same distance, a slight but steady climb all the way, probably less interesting than yesterday but we enjoyed every minute. What’s up?

We awoke to the plaza being set up with vans, trailers, tables, awnings etc for the Tuesday market. All the bar and restaurant tables, chairs and umbrellas had been moved out last night. I would liked to have stayed a couple of hours to watch from our balcony the set up and the market get under way.

We had breakfast with Trish and she is now over her foot issues and was feeling very happy and confident. We absorbed all her good vibes. The walk out of Astorga was lovely and cool, and quickly started the long slow climb we had all day. Mainly through what we would call scrubland, lots of broom and small scruffy trees.

Ahead of us and to the left was a mountain range with a little bit of snow left on the higher slopes. We will be crossing these mountains for the next few days. I think the mountains were helping make us feel so good after the flatness of the meseta. Near lunch time we stopped at the very, very sweet village of Santa Catalina de Somoza for a Zumo naranja, freshly squeezed orange juice, nectar from God. Some of the villages have the suffix Somoza which means under the mountains

While there we met Victoria and Craig who we hadn’t seen for a few days. They had a rest day in Astorga so were looking bright as a button. Picked up a whole bunch of good vibrations from them. Mind you they are always happy and positive – allowing for Craig’s very dry sense of humour.

An hour further on we also stopped in El Ganso which has a kitsch cowboy bar complete with guy in costume playing a banjo. He looked like Liberace wearing a sombrero. He didn’t want to be photographed, maybe he was too embarrassed. We went into what was signposted as a supermercado but turned out to be a bit of hippy heaven. Lots of lovely natural food, handmade trinkets, etc. Barbara bought a little scallop shell pendant, unbelievably made in Espagne, not China.

We ate under the shade of their verandah. The table next to us was covered in a log cabin quilt and hanging from the beam was a little timber hanging sculpture exactly like I make from driftwood at home. More feel good factor.

Apart from the cowboy bar and hippie heaven, El Ganso is a hauntingly crumbling village of collapsing thatch cottages. The first of a few we will pass through in the lonely mountains. These are semi-abandoned Maragota villages. Maragatos rang the bells at the Astorga town hall. Remember? Hope you’ve been paying attention.

Before we left home we had read the Camino in spring is the time for wild flowers. We had no idea what this really meant. I may have mentioned flowers before and maybe included a few in photos. Since St Jean we must have seen 100 different kinds of flowers, half we could recognise and half are completely new. For anyone interested in flora the Camino is the path to heaven. Now that we are getting into the mountains there is a whole new range of sub alpine plants to admire.

Near the end of the day we crossed a modest little bridge over a cool mountain stream. At first the stream looked as though it had islands of snow but looking closer it was thousands of tiny daisies. By now the scrub had changed to oak and pine forest. At the bridge was a tent shelter and a guy dressed in a medieval knight’s costume. On his shoulder was a hawk or a harrier. He was from the Asociacion Gaudisse who do charitable work to assist children. You could get a sello, stamp, for your Pilgrim’s Passport if you wished.

Which reminds me. Trish told us that this Saturday there is to be a jousting tournament at the Puenta de Orbigo we passed over yesterday. We saw the wooden lists, palisade and a spectator gallery on the grass beside the bridge and wondered if something was up. What a sight it would be to cross the bridge with a tournament happening alongside.

Tomorrow is one of our biggest days. 32 km and we climb to the highest point on the Camino at 1,515m. We will be tired peregrinos tomorrow night but hopefully it will be as good a day as today.

Of course today’s Ipod tune has to be The Beach Boys: Good Vibrations.

I’m pickin’ up good vibrations
She’s givin’ me excitation
Good, good, good vibrations.

We were a bit reluctant to leave the lovely mill cottage this morning. There were 11 of us staying there, 2 Italians, 2 from USA, 5 Australians and us. We all got on well and had a lovely meal last night and a leisurely breakfast this morning. The food was first class and all produced by the owner Mercedes and her husband.

Barbara was back in her boots today and the blister is so-so. Not getting any worse and hopefully getting better.

Shortly after setting out we came to the Puente de Orbigo one of the longest and best preserved medieval bridges in Spain. It is nineteen arches long and built in the thirteenth century. It carries you across the river Orbigo via the passage of honour Pasa Honroso so called because of the famous 1434 jousting tournament.

A noble night, Don Suero de Quinones, scorned by a beautiful lady, threw down the gauntlet to any knight who dared to pass as he undertook to defend the bridge and his honour. Knights from all over Europe took up the challenge. It became a huge event with royalty, the contestants and their retinue, the curious and thousands of pilgrims all present. Battle tents were pitched, pennants flew, music blared, bells rang, there were banquets and dancing in the flickering torchlight. The jousting went on for several weeks and Don Suero successfully defended the bridge. When 300 lances had been broken it was declared he had proven his fealty to his secret lady, he had defended his honour and was now a free man. He then did a pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela.

During the tournament Don Suero wore an iron collar around his neck as a sign that he considered himself bound to his lady. This collar can be seen in Santiago. I love all these stories of chivalry. It makes crossing yet another old stone arch bridge so much more interesting.

From the bridge we climbed over two reasonable hills which was welcome after the meseta. On the second hill we were on a partly built road. It was all formed and shaped and had the basecouse laid, so was easy to walk on. They were still working on culverts and drains etc so every now and then had to dodge trucks. It was a beautiful walk crossing dry river valleys and passing through woodland of Holm oak.

At the highest point we came to the Abode of the God’s, la Casa de Los Dioses, Cantina. Here David will show you his humble home and provide rest and shade, and free food, fruit and drinks. No donations accepted. This really was an oasis, Barbara says the water mellon was to die for after a long hot climb.

From there a descent down to Astorga where are now. Yet another lovely hotel in a beautiful town, population 12,000. We are on the second floor with a balcony out over the Plaza Espagne, one of several very popular plazas. To our right is the very ornate, Baroque town hall. In the bell tower are two dressed figures of Maragatos who have come out and rung the bell every hour since 1748. Maragatos are a mountain people from west of Astorga.

There is of course a magnificent cathedral, several smaller churches, monasteries, convents, museums (including a chocolate museum) and what I thought was very interesting, Roman ruins. These include what is thought to be a prison, a house and plaza with a large area of mosaic floor, well preserved Roman baths and the remains of the Roman sewerage system.

Astorga is also well known for its Bishop’s Palace. Antonio Gaudi designed this neo-gothic palace and it was constructed between 1889 and 1913. Gaudi was Spain’s most audacious practitioner of Art Nouveau architecture and design. He used innovative forms, exciting mixtures of stone, tile, glass, painting, sculpture and a strident use of colour. His most famous work, the cathedral of Sagrada Familia in Barcelona, commissioned in 1883, is still being completed.

A minor drama this afternoon. I left my Europe electrical plug adaptor in yesterday’s hotel. I tried many places but couldn’t find even a universal adaptor. Friggin siesta from 2 till 5 didn’t help. In the end the gorgeous young lady at reception directed me to an electrical shop, where I bought a Spanish plug and they replaced the NZ plug on my multibox. All for 2 euros and done on the spot while other customers patiently waited. I love the Spanish.

So now I can continue to charge the kindle, the Ipods, the phone, the tablet, the camera, the shaver, the toothbrush etc, etc. The joy of the modern traveller.

Ipod theme tune for the day: Nancy Sinatra’s These boots are made for walking.

These boots are made for walking, and that’s just what they’ll do,
One of these days these boots are gonna walk all over you,
Are you ready boots, start walking.

We were very keen to get back on the road again this morning. Leon is a beautiful and interesting city but we now love the quiet, slow rhythm of walking.

It took about 90 minutes to get out into the countryside. Mostly through residential suburbs so not as tedious as the entry through industrial and commercial areas.

St James was looking after us today. Rain was forecast and there were lots of dark clouds about. At lunchtime we were passing the village of Chozos de Abajo and just on the spur of the moment decided to take a detour and refuel in a cafe. We had only just got in when the heavens opened and it absolutely persisted down for about 15 minutes. When the sun came out we carried on. The sky to our left was black and far off we saw lightning and heard thunder. A few spots got us and we put on our ponchos for a while but we escaped. Barbara says St James wasn’t totally looking after us as there was no papel higienico in the senoras aseos.

Highlight of the day for Barbara was in the village of Vilar de Mazarife. We heard what sounded like someone on bagpipes warming up. In a side street we found a little band, all in traditional costume with bagpipes. I took a photo of them and one guy came running over to us to have his photo taken with Barbara. She thought he was very nice and smiley and stood very close. He smelled wonderful. We already new from one of our camino lady friends (who seemed to be an officionado on all things concerning Spanish men) that they like to smell nice.

North west Spain has a strong Celtic heritage as celts from central Europe settled here and the bagpipes are the traditional musical instrument of Galicia. The bagpipe is called a gaita from the Gothic word gait or gata meaning goat, as the bag of a gaita is made from a whole skinned goat hide.

Today was a long day – 32 kilometres including 10 km that we were scheduled to do tomorrow. At the 22km mark we had the option of going to bar Tio Pepe and phoning our cottage accommodation for a free pick up. Then tomorrow we could be driven back 10km. Or else just skip the 10km and start from here in the morning. We want to walk the full distance so decided to do the 10km today as we were relatively fresh after a rest day. We now have 10km less to do tomorrow. 32 km is the most we will do in a day and we have another one coming up. Today was pretty flat, a nice temperature and a gentle breeze.

We are in a lovely heritage country cottage out in the countryside. It used to be a mill and is built over a canal. Part of the dining room floor is a glass panel directly over the water. When we arrived we were sat down in a cosy living room and offered coffee, Rose wine and cake. There is accommodation for nine and it is very, very pleasant. A total contrast to the large monastery hotel in Leon. Although that was amazing as well. We are so not suffering the way the medieval pilgrims did!

Ipod theme tune for today: On the road again. This time by Canned Heat.

Well I’m so tired of crying
But I’m out on the road again
I’m on the road again

Leon is a unique place for all of you living at home in Wellington New Zealand.

If you go out into your garden and start digging a hole, and go in a straight line through the centre of the earth, you will emerge in Leon. We will wait for you only until after breakfast tomorrow.

On planet Earth, in a straight line, we can’t get further away from you. You do seem so very far away.

We met up with 6 of our camino comrades last night and had dinner in an outdoor restaurant in Plaza San Isadora . It was warm and sunny, and Friday night and a good time was had by all. Most of them are leaving Leon today and we won’t see them again until we catch up in Sarria, in eight days time.

This region and the adjacent Galicia is known for its sea food and I had one of its traditional dishes, pulpo de la Gallega. Octopus with boiled potatoes, paprika and olive oil. The arms of the octopus are sliced across to form rings with the suckers intact and it is just boiled. The potatoes are also cut into thin slices. It didn’t have a strong taste and was soft and tender although apparently it can be chewy and rubbery. It does not taste like squid, more like lobster.

Today we are regular tourists in a city. Barbara says when you are on the Camino you belong, with all the other peregrinos. In a city you are just a tourist, ie a visitor. Leon has far too much history, art and architecture to try and comprehend in a day so we had a superficial look at the cathedral, the parador hotel and the Colegiata San Isadoro.

Our hotel is part of the Colegiata San Isadoro which besides the luxury hotel has a basilica, cloister, museum, monastery, treasury and most importantly the Royal Pantheon. This is the former vestibule of the church and has been turned into a Royal Burial Vault: here lie 33 members of the Leonese Court. 11 kings, 12 queens, 10 princes and 9 counts. The very special and unique feature is the mural paintings on the six vaults that led it to be renamed “The Sistine Chapel of Romanesque Art”.

The Parador hotel is located in a masterpiece of exuberant Renaissance architecture, the San Marcos monastery. The paradors are state owned luxury hotels usually located in heritage buildings. This one excells with a stunning cloister, church, museum and beautiful gardens. Some of our friends from last night stayed here. We had the option of paying for an upgrade to here but decided we would be a little out of place. Not a little, a lot.

The Catedral, begun in 1205, is a fine example of gothic architecture. It was completed in only 50 years so has a very consistent style. Unlike Burgos which is a collection of styles added over centuries. For the most part it copies at two thirds scale Rheims Cathedral in France. The stained glass windows are why Leon is called the “Cathedral without walls”. Leon has more glass and less stone than any other cathedral in Spain. There are 125 stained glass windows set high in the walls giving a stunning lightness of touch. The artists and artisans consciously strove to glorify god, not in timber or stone, but in coloured glass.

There was not quite enough stone and major collapses occurred in the 17th and 19th centuries. Fortunately dedicated and innovative masons and architects were able to prevent total collapse and restore the cathedral.

When we arrived at the cathedral this morning the whole huge square in front was set up as a farmers’ market. A large number of Leonites (Leonese ?) were out buying their fruit and vegies. It gave something of the feel of what it may have been like in medieval times.

We have also spent some time just lying on the bed in the hotel room. It is supposed to be a rest day after all. I think we are a bit more tired than we like to admit. Barbara developed a blister on her heal three days ago. This annoyed her as it came with no warning. No soreness, no hot spot. The last two days on the meseta she wore her Keens sandals and again today in Leon. The blister is healing well, fingers (and toes) crossed. The footwear of choice on the Camino is soft sandals and thick socks. That is until it rains.

Ipod theme tune for today: Far away by Astrud Gilberto

Far away you seem so far away
When it was only yesterday
That you were oh so close to me
.. . . . . .
I only know you’re so far away
You’re long ago, so far away
Far away, so far away.