Crackington Haven to Tintagel, 19 km, 1065 metres of climbing

‘One step at a time is good walking’

This morning was a section of high cliffs. In fact the highest cliffs in Cornwall and the highest of them all was appropriately named High Cliff. 223 metres above sea level. The approach was the usual up and down, up and down, twisting around the coast. before a final long steady ascent to the top. Almost immediately there was a very steep descent and another climb to Rusey Cliff, only slightly lower than High Cliff. This part of the coast had quite an imposing character as the cliffs seemed really massive and we didn’t see anyone else so it seemed quite lonely.

Many more hard climbs and descents before the path eased off and we entered the beautiful harbour inlet of Boscastle. Boscastle is tucked into a small but deep green valley that ends in a sheltered natural harbour. The village made headline news in 2004 when a spectacular and devastating flash flood swept through the streets carrying away houses and cars and creating chaos. Miraculously there were no fatalities. Most of the buildings have been faithfully restored to their original state and today the village looks smart an spruce.

After what had been a pretty tiring morning we stopped at a café for some lunch to recharge for the afternoon. On the drinks menu we noticed you could buy a flat white – New Zealand Style. We didn’t go to The Museum of Witchcraft and Magic.

The section from Boscastle to Tintagel is a great local favourite, as it combines all the best bits of the Coast Path – headlands, sandy bays, steep valleys, waterfalls, historic features, and it is not too taxing. It is served at each end by car parks and a bus service, and there is also a camp ground and holiday park close to the path. This area is also popular with bird watchers as there are many rocky off shore islands important for breeding seabirds.

Here in Tintagel are the ruins (really only the foundations) of Tintagel Castle that is reputed to be the birthplace of the legendary King Arthur. Somewhere back in the 6^th century a real king called Arthur did actually exist but all the sagas from the 12^th century till today, about knights, round tables, Merlin the Wizard, etc are fiction. This hasn’t stopped the name of King Arthur being purloined for pubs, pizzas and pasties and just about everything else in the village.

However Tintagel does have a great little treasure, the old post office. This stone building dates from around 1380 it is a rare surviving example of a Cornish manor house (a hall house). Over the centuries it has had many uses and from the 1870s it became a letter receiving house for the village. We were too late to go inside and have a look at the five rooms and the traditional garden.