Black Valley to Glencar 20 km

This is reputed to be the hardest day on the Kerry Way. Not the longest, but with steep climbs and descents over two high passes. We were surprised at this because we felt so strong and comfortable all day and the proprietoress at the B & B was amazed we arrived so early. We think cycling both ways over Paekakariki Hill each Friday has given us a strong base strength in the legs.

It was humid and the air felt heavy as we set off this morning. Very warm, with high cloud and mist hanging around the hills. No wind. A quiet walk through the Black Valley on tarmac that changed to gravel and then a track. Quite a few derelict and abandoned houses but a few new ones as well. The fields were liberally dotted with boulders and were hemmed in by precipitous slopes of the hills each side. From the black Valley we turned up a side valley, Cummeenduff Glen and at the end of this started the first of the climbs of the day. This was a climb, pretty much straight up, clambering over boulders, but on a good grassy track. It was a vertical rise of 200 metres to the saddle. Here the path went along a narrow spur and there were great views down into Caragh River Valley below.

Down into this valley we went on a very steep stony track, taking it very slowly and carefully. In the valley the track became a gravel farm road and after a few kms a tarmac road. Just when we thought the going was easy there was a turn off the road and onto a hillside. Ten large switchbacks took us zig zagging on a 300 metres rise to the next saddle. At the top there were magnificent views down to Lough (Lake) Acoose, our destination for the day. Another steep stony descent to a very rough farm road which became a better gravel road and then a tarmac road. Finally a walk alongside Lough Acoose that was purported to be 1.5 km but seemed like about 5 km to our B & B.

There was no-one home when we arrived, just a note on the door, ‘Back at 3.45’. We didn’t mind, we sat down on the outdoor furniture and reflected on another great day through beautiful valleys and over spectacular mountain landscapes.

Usually B & Bs don’t do evening meals but last night and tonight we have been in very remote locations. A 5+ km walk each way to the nearest pub, cafe or restaurant. In this situation they will cook you a meal if you let them know about 24 hours in advance. These meals are great. Meat and veg and potato and not an insipid salad or fatty fry in sight.

When we arrive each day at our B & B the host or hostess usually likes to chat for a few minutes as they welcome us and get us settled in. Invariably they have a daughter or son or nephew or whoever who has gone to Canada or Australia, sometimes New Zealand and there they have met a local boy/girl. The story is always the same. Their daughter comes home to visit them but if they want to see their son they have to travel to him.

Which brings us the next Old Irish Proverb: A daughter is your daughter for the rest of your life. A son is your son till he gets him a wife.

NB No wifi at Glencar so this post is a day late.