Killarney to Black Valley 24 km

Our first day on the Kerry Way

After two days ‘resting’ we were keen to get out on the road again. And it was a good day, not easy but not very demanding. A warm day and with quite a lot of climbing and descending we were feeling a bit sweaty all day. Fortunately about two thirds of the time there was forest so we could keep out of the sun – not usually a big problem in Ireland.

The first hour and a half followed the same route we cycled in 20 minutes yesterday, out of Killarney and into the National Park, Inside the park we used a walkers’ only track and by-passed Muckross Abbey and House and walked up to the 20 metre Torc Waterfall. This is quite impressive and would be even better after heavy rain. From the waterfall there is a steep climb at first through beautiful cool forest and then out into open moorland. The forest is what we now call ‘Hollow Willy’ woodland. This was after a dyslexic moment trying to read the guide notes without our glasses, it is actually Holly and Willow woodland. About a 200 metre climb to the saddle and from the top the Purple Mountain (named for its icing of scree) and the spiky peaks and the steep slopes of the Macgillycuddy’s Reeks were off to our right, Basically we walked down valleys and over crests all day slowly getting closer to the Macgillycuddy’s Reeks so that they now loom high over the Hillcrest B & B where we stay tonight.

For the first half of the day we walked on the Old Kenmare Road, a gravel road used until the 1830s.It is still a very easy road for hikers. Down in the valleys and even up in the moorlands it was very wet and boggy. However we could walk for kms on boardwalks made of railway sleepers, feet nice and dry and clean. From the high moorlands the descents were through atmospheric woodlands of holly and oak and old stone walls. Everything carrying a thick cloak of moss. Near the end of the day we walked along the edge of the Upper Lake of the Killarney Lakes and after passing a deserted church at Derrycunnihy and a tea room named after the long-gone cottage of a wealthy clergyman, Lord Brandon, we crossed an arched bridge to enter the Black Valley. This is where we are staying tonight.

It is called Black Valley because it was particularly hard hit by the Famine in 1845 – 49 and very nearly everyone in the valley died of starvation or emigrated. Another claim to fame is that it was the last area in Ireland to get electricity – in 1957! Our notes say if you have a cell phone don’t expect much coverage, Black Valley hasn’t arrived in the 21^st century yet.

We had to wait until six o’clock for our bags to arrive today. The portage guy had a breakdown in his little white van so had to get a replacement vehicle. He did ring the B & B to let us know he would be delayed. The problem with arriving before your luggage is that even if you have a shower you don’t have fresh clean clothes to change into.

Old Irish proverb of the day:

“Your feet will take you where your heart is”.