Dunquin to Feohanagh 21km

Here at the Old Pier B & B in Feohanagh we have an attic bedroom with two large Velux roof windows. The rain is pouring down and making quite a racket on the glass. But we don’t care. We are snug as a bug in a rug. It was grey all day today but we beat the rain by about half an hour. When we arrived there were fresh scones and home made black current jam waiting for us. Delicious. Usually it is just a biscuit.

This was an outstanding scenic day. Today was easy walking on gentle gradients with a total ascent of only about 100 m. It was equal measure of walking on quiet minor roads, long sandy beaches and grassy paths on coastal cliff tops. I think our bodies and minds have settled into the relaxed rhythm of being pedestrian tourists.

From Dunquin we had a gentle climb to the top of a hill from which there was a long view down the coast. The dominant land forms were three headlands called the Three Sisters. They were to accompany us all day and our B & B looks out toward them over Smerwick Harbour.

The first surprise of the day was coming across the Louis Mulcahy Pottery. We went in because there was a cafe (and it was a good one) but were blown away by the enormous array of items, from candle holders to sinks, from vases to huge urns. Every piece is handmade and decorated, and expensive. Fortunately for our budget most pieces were too big to carry with us, although they did ship to anywhere in the world. There was an open workshop where you could watch the throwers at work and have a go yourself.

After the pottery we went down to the coast. Much of it is dramatically rugged but there are secluded little sandy beaches tucked away. We went to Clogher’s which looked idyllic but in fact had a vicious undertow. From here we were back on sealed minor roads and were passed by a group of children (and teachers) on bicycles. We think they were French as Barbara got lots of waves and smiles as she called out “allez, allez”.

At Smerwick Harbour we walked on two long sandy beaches. The tide was far out and there must have been 100 metres from the water to the sand dunes. We had a lunch stop at the sheltered end of one of them. The sealed roads are nice and even and clean to walk on but are hard on the feet. The firm sand of the beach is much softer and the feet take much less of a pounding. Smerwick is of Norse origin, from smaor (butter) and vick (harbour).

One of the beaches was called Wine Strand , its name recalling its history of smuggling. In my mind I associate smuggling with caves and the Famous Five or Secret Seven, but there are no caves here. At the end of the harbour at Murreagh is a jetty and some small fishing boats and from there we walked on a nice grass track on top of cliffs, high above the sea.

We regularly see other couples who are also walking the Dingle Way. We know each other well enough now to say hello and have a small chat about how it is going. There were five couples on the beach this afternoon, all with the same goal but strategically spaced apart to keep their independence.

We need a good sleep tonight. Tomorrow will be our most dramatic and challenging day, crossing the shoulder of Mt Brandon.