Entering a city never seems to be quite right. It feels much more natural to be walking in the countryside and stopping in villages. Sarria is a town of 13,000 and is a major starting point for pilgrims with a limited amount of time. It is just outside the required 100km minimum distance for those wanting a Compostela. We expect to see a big increase in the number of pilgrims from tomorrow, all fresh and eager, and no doubt a lot faster than we old hands.

Sarria signifies a change in attitude for us. Until now we have not thought about getting to Santiago. The distance to go was so beyond comprehension we did not do a tally each day of kilometres done and kilometres to go. From Sarria it is about 110 km to Santiago. This is the same distance as Raumati South to Wellington and return, which we have done twice. So we can now get our heads around the distance to Santiago.

Now we have to get two stamps per day in our passports, signed and dated in order to qualify for a Compostela. All the previous stamps count for nothing.

For the first time we arrived at our hotel before our maletas (suitcases). It is always very reassuring to walk into reception and there at the counter, patiently waiting for us, are our maletas. They are not guaranteed to be delivered before 4.30pm. There are many stories of bags going missing, being delivered to the wrong hotel or just not being picked up. It must be a heck of an operation each day delivering hundreds of bags to dozens of hotels in dozens of towns. Ours arrived a couple of hours after us.

Another magic morning, we again set off in mist but it quickly lifted. The shortest route was also the more scenic for a change, going through many farms. Lots of cows in this area and the paths which are also sometimes mini streams are awash with cow shit. Not that many cafes today but just enough for a short day. We didn’t feel like stopping to eat as the farm smell was so strong. It wasn’t a fresh cow pat smell but a very potent fermented cow pat smell. Something to do with the farm animals being kept in barns and not feeding on grass.

Ipod theme song: Roy Rogers, Get along little dogies.

Whoopee ti yi yo, get along little dogies
Its your misfortune and none of my own
Whoopee ti yi yo, get along little dogies
You know that Wyoming will be your new home