We were very keen to get back on the road again this morning. Leon is a beautiful and interesting city but we now love the quiet, slow rhythm of walking.
It took about 90 minutes to get out into the countryside. Mostly through residential suburbs so not as tedious as the entry through industrial and commercial areas.
St James was looking after us today. Rain was forecast and there were lots of dark clouds about. At lunchtime we were passing the village of Chozos de Abajo and just on the spur of the moment decided to take a detour and refuel in a cafe. We had only just got in when the heavens opened and it absolutely persisted down for about 15 minutes. When the sun came out we carried on. The sky to our left was black and far off we saw lightning and heard thunder. A few spots got us and we put on our ponchos for a while but we escaped. Barbara says St James wasn’t totally looking after us as there was no papel higienico in the senoras aseos.
Highlight of the day for Barbara was in the village of Vilar de Mazarife. We heard what sounded like someone on bagpipes warming up. In a side street we found a little band, all in traditional costume with bagpipes. I took a photo of them and one guy came running over to us to have his photo taken with Barbara. She thought he was very nice and smiley and stood very close. He smelled wonderful. We already new from one of our camino lady friends (who seemed to be an officionado on all things concerning Spanish men) that they like to smell nice.
North west Spain has a strong Celtic heritage as celts from central Europe settled here and the bagpipes are the traditional musical instrument of Galicia. The bagpipe is called a gaita from the Gothic word gait or gata meaning goat, as the bag of a gaita is made from a whole skinned goat hide.
Today was a long day – 32 kilometres including 10 km that we were scheduled to do tomorrow. At the 22km mark we had the option of going to bar Tio Pepe and phoning our cottage accommodation for a free pick up. Then tomorrow we could be driven back 10km. Or else just skip the 10km and start from here in the morning. We want to walk the full distance so decided to do the 10km today as we were relatively fresh after a rest day. We now have 10km less to do tomorrow. 32 km is the most we will do in a day and we have another one coming up. Today was pretty flat, a nice temperature and a gentle breeze.
We are in a lovely heritage country cottage out in the countryside. It used to be a mill and is built over a canal. Part of the dining room floor is a glass panel directly over the water. When we arrived we were sat down in a cosy living room and offered coffee, Rose wine and cake. There is accommodation for nine and it is very, very pleasant. A total contrast to the large monastery hotel in Leon. Although that was amazing as well. We are so not suffering the way the medieval pilgrims did!
Ipod theme tune for today: On the road again. This time by Canned Heat.
Well I’m so tired of crying
But I’m out on the road again
I’m on the road again