A strange night. At 11pm we were woken by a very loud gurgling and splashing and running of water coming from above us. In my half awake state I wondered who the heck was having a bath at this time. It took a couple of minutes to think hang on a minute, we are alone in this house and we are on the upper floor. Barb got up to check we weren’t in a flood from a burst pipe or something, but everything was okay. At 3am it happened again. We don’t know what it was, maybe a supply tank or boiler flushing and refilling itself?
Since I had been awoken at 3am I went outside to check out the Milky Way. What a disappointment! There was a huge full moon. Bright enough to cast shadows. Only the very brightest of the stars were visible. You could have easily walked the Camino without a torch. I will have to wait about two weeks and try again.
Not much chat at the dinner table last night or breakfast this morning. 4 swedes, 2 french, 3 irish and us. I couldn’t understand anything said by anybody. We got a ride in the hotel van the 2km back to the trail. Initially it was cool climbing back up to the plateau but soon it was stinking hot. Not a breath of wind. The wind turbines were still and useless. Everyone was peeling off layers.
After a while, as often seems to happen, we were in a group of about 5 of our lovely lady friends. Talk about chat, chat, chat! I was the only male so I stopped and pretended to be taking a photo of a turbine doing nothing. This allowed me to drop back about 50metres where I could stroll along in the peace and quiet. It is peaceful on the meseta, just a few birds twittering and sometimes the sound of a far off tractor. I mustn’t speak badly of the ladies, they are all so much fun. Nobody is finding it easy but they are always positive and friendly and time passes much more quickly when you are with them.
Walking across the plateau you keep an eye on the person you can see furthest ahead. If they disappear it is a good sign. Then more and more disappear. They have moved off the plateau and gone down into a canyon. Soon a church steeple rises up out of the canyon. Then you are on the edge and down before you is a village. An oasis. It means toilets, coffee, food, a seat in the shade, taking your shoes off and airing your feet, cool fresh water in your bottles. Bliss!
Just before the oasis town of Hontanas we saw a group of people approaching from a path on our right. They had no packs, walking poles or drink bottles or any of the stuff of regular pilgrims. They looked fresh and above all clean, unlike us. Turns out they were a group of 29 kiwis on a bus tour. They had started in Le Puy in France and were doing about 1800km of the Camino in 3 weeks. They sometimes walked 12 km a day. Today they got off their huge blue coach 1km before Hontanas, walked through the village, and went a further 1km where the coach was now waiting. One chap asked me if we were staying in Leon tonight, as they were. I bit my tongue and told him it would take us a week to get to Leon.
I must not judge, everyone does their camino in their own way. And besides we are not carrying full packs and staying in albergues.
Lots more wild flowers today and Barbara found some strong smelling lavender.
Our destination today was Castrojeriz and the approach to it is absolutely magical. First you go through the spectacular 14th century ruins of a huge convent at San Anton. Ahead of you is a straight road and an avenue of trees. Beyond the trees is a high hill and on the summit a castle. At the foot of the hill on the right is a large church (The Collegiate Church of Our Lady of the Apple), and on the left the town of Castrojeriz. It takes nearly an hour to walk down the avenue of trees and enter the town and I found it just breathtaking.
Walking through the town we came across a delightful scene. A group of about 40 children, aged about six, all dressed as medieval pilgrims with floppy hats, brown cloaks, a staff, a gourd, a shell, and pilgrim passports. They were with adults, also dressed up, and going to the churches etc to get stamps in their passports. They were all so excited. Of course there were a few boys at the back who thought it was all pretty stupid and were whacking each other and anything else they could find, with their staffs.
Ipod theme tune for today: Moonshadow by Cat Stevens
Oh, I’m bein followed by a moonshadow, moonshadow, moonshadow
Leapin’ and hoppin’ on a moonshadow, moonshadow, moonshadow.