Today was a bit of a struggle when it shouldn’t have been. It was a lovely walk in the woods. We felt quite lethargic and for three reasons :

Tired from yesterday’s big effort

Not adjusted to local time, wide awake at 4am

Two much red wine for dinner last night.

No sore bodies, just not much energy.

20kms, passing through four small villages, lots of undulations but generally heading downhill with a steep descent over the last 3km into Zubiri. Most of the time we were walking in forest, ideal conditions, cooler and a slight wind.

There are no public toilets so far on the Camino. It is accepted in the villages that you can just walk into a cafe or bar, use the conveniences and walk out. This would not be tolerated at home. When we want a loo stop we buy a coffee for the privilege of using their facilities. The problem is that this means a  loo stop a bit further up the road.

Early today we walked through a particularly beautiful forest. The leaves were lit by the low angle of the sun and were a very bright almost lime shade of green. As we emerged at the edge of the forest there was a large white stone cross. Apparently some nastiness had occurred here in the 16th century. Nine women were accused of having a witches coven in the forest and were burnt at the stake. People used to wear little white crosses as protection from witches spells. The white stone cross was erected to ward off any spells that might still be in the forest. We passed through safely and the “witches of oak wood” did not get us.

As you enter Zubiri you cross an ancient stone bridge, Puenta de la Rabies . It has two large arches, one either side of a thick central column. The story is that if you walk your animals three times round the central column they will be free of rabies. I bet the vets like that.

We caught up with a group of four loud Australian (oxymoron?) guys in their forties or fifties. Barbara started to quizz them on why they were walking the Camino. My suggestion that they were actually four priests was met with uproarious laughter and a few crude comments. Barbara’s suggestion that they had been sent by their wives was met with silence.

Walking is usually very peaceful. Just the crunch of your footsteps, the click, click of the walking poles, clong, clong of the cow bells, some birds and the rustle of the breeze in the trees. Then the travelling circus of the above four Aussies comes up behind you. You let them pass and quickly tranquillity returns.

We arrived at our hotel at about 1.30 but they weren’t quite ready for us and asked us to come back at 2. This suited us as we were hungry and wanted some lunch. At a cafe we bought two bocadillos. These are half a length of crispy bread stick  with an omelette inside, usually with ham but any filling you like. They are everywhere and good filling food for walking. The problem is they have a very crusty, jagged top to them which unless you are very careful rips shreds off the top of your mouth. We have duly been initiated into the pilgrim experience.