Esposende to Varina do Costelo 24kms
Total distance 87kms
Climb 300m
Total climb 760m

Today we cleared some misconceptions and confusion we had about the Camino Portuguese Routes. There is the Central Route which is miles inland which we are not concerned with. Then there are the Coastal Route, Caminha da Costa, and Seashore Path, Senda Litoral. You do not see the English translations, just the Portuguese, da Costa and Litoral. For the last two days these two have followed exactly the same path on the coast. But this morning as we left Esposende they diverged, and the coastal path we thought we were following went inland and up into some hills. We didn’t see any signage for the litoral route at all. We were a bit confused as to what was going on, but two American ladies with good guide notes assured us we should go inland on the Portuguese Caminha de Costa. It turns out the coastal route is an old route and is called that because it loosely follows the coast and is nearer the coast than the central route. Litoral translates to “of the coast or seashore”, is a new route and religiously (!) follows the coast. This route is all on boardwalks or beaches and has a touristy beach resort vibe. At the end of the day they both converge and have to cross the same bridge entering Viana do Costelo.

We think we made the right choice going inland on the “coastal” route. It was a cloudless, sunny day with no wind, so we would have baked out in the open on the beach. Our route took us through many little villages, past countless churches and chapels, through farm land and vinyards, but best of all a lot of it was through forest which was much cooler out of the sun. We did have to climb two hills, both about 150m vertical height but they had very gentle gradients so didn’t bother us at all.

Between the two hills was a beautiful little river which we crossed on a narrow stone bridge. This looked an inviting spot to go for a swim. The villages also had cafes where we could stop for coffee and lunch. We try to walk for two hours before we start looking for a coffee, but sometimes, depending on where we are, this can stretch to three or even longer. We try to get some lunch after about 5 five hours walking.

We are feeling more and more like being part of the Camino community. We are recognising the same faces each day. Some are staying at the same hotels so we see them at breakfast and dinner. Some we just see many times on the road or at cafes, so you start saying hello and strike up some conversation. Today we walked awhile with two ladies from Vancouver Island Canada so we could talk about our cycling trips in British Columbia and Alberta and our trips to Victoria, Vancouver Island. They also often went to the San Juan Islands where we spent a week a few years ago.

The Suave Mar Hotel we stayed at last night was the most upmarket we have stayed at so far. For breakfast this morning they had all the usual continental breakfast fare I have described before, and they also had more fruit, peaches, water melon etc, and also scrambled eggs, bacon, sausages, baked beans, mushrooms, croquets, hard boiled eggs, cakes, and pain au chocolat. More like a full English breakfast. Our hotel tonight is just off the main square in the centre of the old town Varina do Castelo. It is a small hotel, very comfortable, and downstairs they have a public restaurant. So not far to go for our meal tonight. Where we stay and dinner is included they have what is called a half board menu. So far, olives and bread, soup or salad, fish or meat, dessert from the trolley and still or sparkling water. Sometimes the olives and bread is omitted and wine will be included.

We have now done three 20 plus kilometre days in a row and are feeling pretty good. Tomorrow we have a “rest day” here in Varina do Castelo so we will take it easy, do some washing and look around the town.