Plymouth to Noss Mayo, 19km, 831m climbing,

It was great to be back walking today. It is amazing how one day of rest on the trains does wonders for the body, especially the aching feet. The official route uses a ferry to cross the Cattewater where the Plym River flows into Plymouth Sound. There is an alternative land route that adds about 8km or two hours to the day, but it is a tedious walk through, docklands, industrial estates, fuel tank farms and housing estates, so everybody gets the ten minute ferry ride over to Mount Batten.

The walk from Mount Batten is along low cliffs, much of it overlooking Plymouth Sound. On a beautiful clear, still morning the Sound was looking so serene. Below the cliffs were areas of rock platform and turquoise water. The focal point offshore was Great Mew Stone, a rocky island about a mile out to sea. The island is now uninhabited but was once occupied by one Sam Wakeman, who was exiled there for seven years as punishment for some misdemeanour and paid his rent by supplying rabbits for the table of the local manor.

This section was a largely rustic gentle ramble interrupted only by a few caravan and chalet sites. Towards the end we came to the picturesque mouth of the River Yealm, forming a dramatic wooded gap in the cliffs, where there was another ferry crossing. The 12 km walk between the two ferries was perhaps the most consistently nice of all the walking so far.

There is a ferry service across the river that operates daily from April until the end of September 10am – 4pm but at times is restricted to 10am – noon and 3pm – 4pm. We arrived at about 12.30pm and were in luck. Just as we arrived at the stone steps the ferry turned up to take a party of four across, so we jumped on as well. This was an expensive ferry, £4 each for a five minute ride. The earlier ferry at Plymouth was £2 each for a ten minute ride. This ferry operates on the same system as some of the ones we used last year. At the ferry landing there is a large coloured disk which you uncover to attract the ferryman if he is on the other side.

Our accommodation tonight is in a farmhouse out in the countryside quite some distance from any facilities. Because of this we decided to walk from the ferry about a kilometre into the village of Noss Mayo and have our main meal at lunchtime. We knew there were two good pubs there and chose The Ship Inn. This must be about the fifteenth Ship Inn we have been to on our travels on the coast path. Almost every village seems to have one.

We retraced our steps after lunch and after about an hour and a half reached our farmhouse. It is part of a large working farm, some distance inland from the coast, and very comfortable. There are quite a few rules in this B & B. We were met at the door and had to remove our walking shoes (which we always do anyway) and were given slippers to wear in the house. We are not allowed to walk around in our socks as they might also be dirty.

Those of you who have been looking at the photos carefully will have noticed that from Minehead to Westward Ho! Barbara had always worn a green top. From Plymouth to Brixham she is always going to wear her red top. I have to say she was fastidious in washing the green top at the end of each day and letting it dry overnight. But now I have to reprogram my brain to always look out for the lady in red. Thanks to Chris De Burgh for that wonderful song – The Lady in Red.