Chip ‘n’ Dale

Dartmouth to Brixham, 20kms, 912m ascending, 3762 ascending accumulative

The Dartmouth Boutique B & B was the first accommodation not to offer a cooked breakfast. Instead they had a very good continental breakfast; a wide choice of juices, muesli, yoghurt and fresh fruit. A great selection of ham, salami, cheeses, boiled egg, toast and jam, tea and coffee. If you were still hungry – croissants and muffins. This was a refreshing change from the usual English cooked breakfast.

We tried a different route from the B & B high up on the hill down to Dartmouth, winding our way down narrow streets. Managed not to get lost. Then we had a quick ferry ride over the Dart to Kingswear to continue the Coast Path. Pleasant woodland walking with some very playful grey squirrels, views across to Dartmouth Castle and then a small climb to Inner Froward Point where there was a Coastguard Lookout and visitor centre. Also at the point were the remains of an extensive WWII defence position, Brownstone Battery.

Then some tacking along the hillside mainly through gorse and open pasture but some patches of woodland and apple trees. The middle of the day had two big descents and climbs the first at  Scabbacombe Sands to Crabrock Point and the second at Man Sands up to Southdown Cliff. We take these in our stride now. We are like two old farm tractors, not fast or flashy, but put us in low gear and we will chug up the climbs without missing a beat. Some easier walking then to our last Headland for this year – Berry Head. Here there are two Napoleonic-era forts, visitor centre, café and lighthouse. The lighthouse located at 58 metres above sea level is at the highest altitude of any British lighthouse. Probably as a result of its lofty location, it is also the smallest lighthouse in Britain, at just 5 metres high.

Some further gentle climbs and descents to water level, past the salt water swimming lido, a huge marina, the commercial fishing port, and into Brixham. For once our accommodation is right on the Coast Path overlooking the old inner harbour and has a pub with food just downstairs. It is a hotel that was formerly six fishermen’s cottages dating back to the 18th century and has a unique character and ‘old world charm’ which makes it very cosy.

So we are finished the walking for this adventure and as usual are feeling a bit flat tonight. With the 500km of the Coast Path we did last year and about 300km this year we have now done 800km of the total length of 1000km. It is tempting to think about coming back and doing the final 200km but we are not sure that will ever happen. Too many other things to do!

Tomorrow it is bus/train/train and back to London. Not sure we are looking forward to London after the remote peace and tranquillity of South Devon.

 

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