Coverack to Mawnan Smith, 26 km, 468 m climbing

‘Thoughts come clearly while one walks’. Thomas Mann

Today was not a day for dramatic coastline scenery, but it was a pretty day. The path included low cliffs (Lowland Point was only about 5 metres above sea level) facing away from the prevailing wind. There are two working quarries on the coast that the path has been diverted from so we went inland across pleasant rural fields of soft, soft grass, through woodland and along very quiet country roads.

There were two rivers to cross. The Gillan Creek which can be crossed with wet feet at low tide and the larger Helford River. Both have ferries which you call for service. The system at each ferry is a large board – an orange square at Gillan, and a yellow circle at Helford, which you uncover and the ferryman can see from the other side of the river. He then knows someone needs to be picked up. At Gillan Creek it is a fairly casual operation; seasonal, tide and weather dependant, and the whim of the ferryman. At Gillan Creek the ferry saves a 4 km trek further up the river to cross by a bridge. Helford River ferry is a more commercial operation; operates every day, to a time table and is also a water taxi for transferring people to shore from the hundreds of yachts moored in the river. It saves a trek up the river of about 50 km. Both ferries were perfect for us today. £2.50 and £4 each well spent.

The ferries are located some way up each creek/river in narrow, sheltered locations, so in each case we had a walk up the side of the estuary. This part of the day was quite beautiful as the banks of the estuaries are wooded and you pass pretty beaches. The walking was also easy with no big climbs. There were quaint little villages at each of the ferry landings, mainly holiday lets, an ice cream shop and a pub. It was a sunny, hot day so walking in the shade of the wood for long periods was a blessing.

We stopped in at two little churches. The first was St Anthony-in-Meneage on the north side of Gillan Creek. The 15^th century tower of the church is what you aim for if you are crossing the estuary on foot at low tide. It is a pretty mediaeval parish church in a lovely setting.

The second was the Church of St Mawnan and St Stephen located between the coast and our location tonight, Mawnan Smith. The 13^th century church occupies a prime position overlooking the mouth of the Helford River. It is probably named after St Mauanus a Breton monk who landed here in the 6^th century. The tower has been a navigation aid for sailors for centuries. A request from coastguards, in 1842, to paint the tower white was never followed up (thank God). The arch over the entrance and the ends of the pews were decorated in pink and white flowers – there had been a wedding here earlier in the afternoon.

Two mishaps today. The first at the very beginning of the day. We had stopped at a shop in Coverack to buy bread and cheese for lunch. Outside we put our purchases on a wall to stow them in our bags. We discovered we had chosen a place with great dolops of bird poop. Our lunch was now covered in it – yuk!

The second mishap was near the end of the day while crossing a field. I stepped and slid in a huge cow pat concealed in the long grass. While regaining my balance I managed to step in another cow pat – double yuk!