Mawnan Smith to Falmouth, 8 km, 158 m climbing

‘I’m a slow walker but I never walk back’. Abraham Lincoln

Today was our shortest day yet. 6 km! 6 hours to walk 6 km! Slow walking was the order of the day. We did manage to lengthen the distance another 2 km by walking the long route around Pendennis Head. After 22 days of walking we have a natural rhythm of walking, much nearer 4 km/hr than 1 km/hr. When you’re fit and healthy and the path is easy, slow walking is difficult. You almost have to stop and smell every flower.

Falmouth has two good beaches and we knew we would be passing both of them today so we packed bathing costumes and towels to carry with us. The first beach was Swanpool but it didn’t look very inviting. Few people on the beach, only two people swimming, murky water and a stiff on shore breeze. We pressed on to Gyllyngvase which was much better. A much larger beach, sheltered from the wind, lots of people in the water, the sun was out and the water sparkled. After a bit of dithering about, Barbara decided, yes this was the day, we had to have a swim. We didn’t expect 26 degree water like the pool at home, and 13 degree water is pretty bracing, but it was very refreshing, even enjoyable in retrospect.

So we dawdled along, patted every dog, smelt every flower and still got to Falmouth with two hours to fill in before check-in time at 3pm. An extended lunch at The Shed on the waterfront boat harbour filled most of the time. Our latest resolution: no more hamburgers.

Although Falmouth is now primarily a tourist destination it has a long maritime history and still has an active docklands area with dry docks and heavy industry. It is located in the estuary of the River Fal and is the third largest deep water port in the world. The deep water port makes it popular with cruise ship companies. In 1540 King Henry VIII built Pendennis Castle on Pendennis Point at the entrance to Falmouth Harbour (called Carrick Roads) and a matching castle on the other side at St Mawes. These were built as protection from invasion by the French and Spanish.

Falmouth was just a small fishing village until the 17^th century when it was developed by the Killigrew family who made their money from privateering and piracy, a lucrative trade in those days. For over 160 years between 1689 and 1851 almost all mail going to and from Britain’s expanding empire went through Falmouth using ‘packet’ ships. As the most south-westerly good harbour in Great Britain it was often the last departure point and first return point for ships going elsewhere in the world. It was faster to travel overland from here by coach than to sail on.

We are staying in The Grove Hotel located on the waterfront in the old part of town and we will be here two nights. No plans are in place for tomorrow but there seems to be a lot to see and do.