Charlestown to Fowey, 19 km, 345m climbing

‘I’m walking my own path, your approval is not needed’

Our trip notes described today as being positively gentle with the price to pay for this leniency being a walk around a golf course, then around the back of a large china clay works and walking alongside a section of busy road.

It was a bit murky and very slightly drizzly as we left Charlestown and after a climb onto some low cliffs we were soon walking around the edge of the Carlyon Bay golf course. Walking actually on the edge of the fairways. There were lots of signs warning us of stray golf balls and despite the weather there were a lot of golfers out on a Saturday morning. It seemed like we walked the length of all eighteen holes and survived without being hit by any hooks or slices.

Immediately after the golf course the path took us inland around a large china clay works. It is on the coast and has its own harbour and wharfs and the whole area it occupies is out of bounds. We passed huge derelict warehouses, conveyor belts and industrial machinery from the first factory set up in the 19^th century. Then past the present operating factory with even larger modern buildings. This was all quite interesting in its own way even if not very attractive. It did remind us that we are still in the real world even while walking the beautiful, wild and remote coast.

To get around the china clay works we had to walk alongside some busy roads, under two railway viaducts and through some streets of pretty mundane workers’  housing. Eventually we got onto a nice beach and then up onto some low cliffs. After passing through Polkerris and its lovely little enclosed beach we tackled the only real climb of the day up to Gribbin Head. On the summit is a red and white painted tower, or daymark, built in 1832 as a navigation aid to sailors to pinpoint the entrance to Fowey Harbour. It is described as a ‘handsome Greco-Gothic Square Tower’, well maybe.

In WW2 this area, and a headland we had climbed just outside Falmouth, were used as decoy sites to lure enemy bombers away from Falmouth and Fowey. Special effect systems were scattered strategically across the headlands and controlled from bunkers. The effects were designed by British film studios to simulate lights from docks, railway tracks and stations, and fires caused by exploded bombs. As enemy bombers approached, the bunker crew switched on the lights. Flying at night the air crew were fooled into thinking they had spotted Falmouth or Fowey. As the bombs were dropped the bunker crew triggered fires and explosions to give the impression of successful bomb strikes.

Next a descent from the head to another sheltered beach with a pond and a lovely stone house – the inspiration for the beach house in Daphne du Maurier’s novel Rebecca. Then into Fowey – pronounced ‘Foy’ (as in toy). An incredibly quaint, laidback and serene little Cornish town, one of the most attractive on the whole of the coast path. Once a major trading port, the fortunes of Plymouth expanded at Fowey’s expense, and the locals returned to fishing and smuggling, and now tourism to make a living. We arrived in Fowey quite early so went to a pub to have some lunch and guess what, it was a Ship Inn. Our third Ship Inn in four days.

Our bags were on a different holiday today. They went to one place, we went to another. Our hostess Doreen tracked them down and they were delivered within half an hour in a perfectly restored VW Kombi van. About 10 days ago Max Adventures emailed us to advise our proposed accommodation in Fowey (Wellington’s Guesthouse) was double booked and we could either stay a third night in Charlestown (and shuttle by taxis) or change to a standby B & B in Fowey, which we chose to do. However our bags went to Wellingtons while we went to 4 The Windmill. The luggage transfer company hadn’t been advised of the change by Max! All ended well and we have been able to have a shower and change into relatively fresh clothes.