Allihies to Eyeries  12km

At breakfast we said goodbye to a German couple we had become a bit friendly with. They started in Glengarrif the same day as us and we have seen them most days. A couple of times we have stayed at the same accommodation. A few years ago they spent 4 weeks in New Zealand and walked the Queen Charlotte Track. They called it paradise. The Queen Charlotte introduced them to the idea of walking and having your bags transported for you. Now they do it all the time. But now they have to go home as they only have two weeks per year leave from work and study.

This morning we climbed up the hill behind Allihies passing the largest of the three surviving copper mine engine houses. This one was erected in 1862 to operate the newly invented system of lowering and lifting miners to and from the mines. This mine, Mountain Mine, was the most productive in this area and reached a depth of 421 metres below the surface, 280 metres of this below ocean level. In the distance we could see the North Engine house, its role was to pump water from the depths to enable deeper and deeper mining.

It was nice and clear going over the saddle of the Sieve Miskish Mountains, and not a breath of wind. From the top we had views down into Coulagh Bay, further off Kenmare Bay, and in the far distance the Kerry Peninsular. The walking was easy for the first 7 or 8 kms, on minor tarmac roads and gravel farm roads (what they call a green road).  Then we climbed up onto the open ground of a grassy hill and traversed a steep slope for about 5kms. Trying to stay upright and walk across the slope was tough on the ankles and it was quite slushy and slippery. Great views down over a patchwork of fields, coloured farm houses, and the inlets along the coast. It was so still we could easily hear from far below the sound of tractors working the fields, dogs barking, cows lowing and roosters crowing.

A lovely day. Even with lots of stops and walking at an easy pace we arrived at our B & B by 1.30pm and our bags hadn’t arrived. For the Beara Way it is the job of each B & B to transport the bags ahead to the next accommodation. This is easy when it is only 10 or 20 kilometres along the road. We sat outside and had our bread rolls which we had bought freshly made from the general store in Allihies. Most country general stores will make you a sandwich or roll to order and have a variety of fresh pastries, cookies and scones. No losing weight through lack of food.

Fran at tonight’s B & B, Cappa House, sent a text to last night’s accommodation and within 15 minutes our bags were delivered. Cappa House is also about 2 kms from the village of Eyeries so Fran is making us a dinner here tonight.

Fran said all her family were mad rugby fans and can’t wait for the third test. Local time it will start 8.30am on a Saturday morning which seems a bit strange to us.

Old Irish saying of the day:
Here’s to:
A long life and a merry one
A quick death and an easy one
A pretty girl and an honest one
A cold beer and another one!