Lauragh to Kenmare 27km

We knew this day would be a test. Three hills to get over, a climb of 200m, then a climb of 300m, and finally a climb of 400m. 900m climbing and of course 900m of descending.

We had a packed lunch from Moulin B & B as there was nowhere to buy food on the route today. It was clear and still and cool when we set out and it was very pleasant on a minor road through a forest. Soon we were into the first climb, Knockatee, and it got hot very quickly out in the open farmland. We crossed over a bigger road and happened to coincide with a group of cyclists from Backroads tours. There were about twenty in three groups. They all had the same jerseys and cute reflective triangles strapped to their butts. From the top there were views out over Kenmare Bay and Kerry Peninsular.

A steep descent then straight into the second climb, Knocagarrane, this time on a grass track. From the top we looked down on four lakes. Three were imaginatively called Cloonee Lough Lower, Cloonee Lough Middle and Cloonie Lough Upper. The fourth was Lough Inchiquin. Another steep descent then crossed between Lough Middle and Inchiquin and onto the third and biggest climb of the day, again on a grass track. From the top of this climb we could see Kenmare in the distance, still 13 km away. The last 8km, now in the mid afternoon , were very hot and on a tarmac road. After an age we at last turned onto the bridge over the Kenmare River. There was a beautiful cool breeze coming up the river from the sea and we just wanted to stay there and soak it up.

The Beara way has been a bit different to the other two as far as way finding goes. We have typed notes and although they have a profile to show climbs and descents, they have no map. We purchased an Ordnance Survey map but it is 1 to 50,000. So we have some notes, a map and what is actually happening on the ground in front of us. 90% of the time this is fine. 5% of the time it takes a bit of lateral thinking to rationalise the three bits of information. We get this correct about two times out of three. The other 5% of the time the information is missing or is just plain wrong. We guess this and get it correct about 1 time in three. So you have to constantly pay attention and we sure have made some mistakes that have cost us a lot in time and energy.

On open hillsides where there is no path, there are brown marker posts with a yellow arrow and the little yellow man. In theory from one post you are supposed to be able to see ahead to the next one but often it is a gap of several hundred metres, or a post has fallen over, or a tree has grown over a post. Up on the high passes where it gets misty the posts are often only 20 or 30 metres apart.

It was very satisfying to finish and get back to Kenmare today. It was physically and mentally challenging and we are happy to have completed just over 500km on the three walks. A quiet, relaxing day tomorrow before we head back to Dublin.

Old Irish proverb of the day: There are two versions of every story and twelve versions of every song.