Adrigole to Castletownbere 23 km

Last night’s accommodation, Dromagowlane House caters mainly for anglers. Paul our host has won many fishing trophies and last night the four other guests (all male of course) were here for the fishing. The fishermen usually stay for a week whereas we walkers are just one night stands. It was entertaining at breakfast this morning listening to the guys. They were two pairs of friends, but the pairs didn’t know each other. There was instant rapport as they swapped stories of fishing locations, size of catches, equipment, the ones that got away, etc.

Paul drove us back to Peg’s Store and then went on to deliver our bags to tonight’s destination. Yesterday we had made a lunch order for baps. But Peg had forgotten our order, or the baps had run out or something, anyway we ended up with corned beef and cheese sandwiches. Much later on a hill side we were to learn this was corned beef like we had never tasted before. Sort of a pink spam like substance, that might have contained meat. But when you are in the middle of nowhere, hungry and need energy it all tastes good. Washed it down with luke warm instant coffee. Yum.

Our entertainment today was to keep an eye out for two insectivorous plants which can be found in the barren uplands here. They are the Sundew which is a tiny reddish plant and the Butterworth which is light green and star shaped. Due to the lack of nourishment from the ground these plants absorb tiny insects and flies to get sustenance. At first we didn’t know what we were looking for but we found them when we realized these plants were very tiny, and everywhere.

Today’s walk was 23 kilometres, to go by road was 10! Every time we thought we were getting somewhere we were turned in another direction away from Castletownbere and always up another hill. Several times we went way up a valley on one side of a stream, crossed over, and came all the way back down the other side. This might have been interesting if everything hadn’t been lost in the mist.

It started to rain an hour before Castletownbere and we arrived in town soaked to the skin. We decided to have dinner then as our B & B is a kilometer out of town. It was 4.30 and they were still serving the lunch menu. The first course was okay but the desserts were to die for. Barbara had pavlova with ice cream and fresh raspberries and strawberries. I had apple pie with ice cream and raspberry couli.

We are here for two nights and tomorrow will take the ferry over to Bere Island and explore. Or if it’s still raining, stay in bed.

Old Irish proverb of the day: If Irish eyes are smiling then they are up to mischief.