Today was a super day. A day in the saddle and great to be cycling again and having a rest from walking.

We picked up hire bikes at 9am. We knew they would want photo ID and had our passports but they wanted to keep them until we returned the bikes. We were reluctant to do this so the guy lent me a bike to go back to the guesthouse to get my driver’s licence out of the safe. Interestingly there was no paperwork to read or sign. No waivers, insurance, indemnity etc. Just pay your money, leave your licence and go. €15 for 24 hours. We headed out of town on a cycle path to Killarney National Park about 6km away.

Three major sites today. First up, the Franciscan Friary of Muckross, founded about 1445. The community here were Observantine Franciscans so-called because of their rigid observance of the order’s rules on matters such as diet, clothing and possession of private property (no mention of chastity!). Muckross was suppressed by Henry VIII, re-established in 1612 and the friars eventually driven out by Cromwell in 1652. It is on many different levels and you can go up and down circular stairs, through tunnels etc. It has a very intimate and lovely cloister and in the middle of the cloister a large yew tree. This tree is thought to be well over 600 years old, so it could be that the cloister was built around an existing tree.

About a kilometre away was Muckross House. Built 1839 – 43 by the Herberts in the Elizabethan style. 26 bedrooms and 62 chimneys. The Herberts made their money by copper mining in the district. After being owned by the Guinness family and an American mining magnate who gave the estate to his daughter as a wedding gift, the house and estate were presented to the Irish Nation to become a national park. I think the first in Ireland. We didn’t do the tour inside but walked and cycled around the vast and immaculate gardens and grounds. The house faces the Middle Lake, or Muckross Lake and we were able to cycle around the lake on a very quiet one way, one lane road. On the opposite side of the lake from the house, which you can be taken to on little boats, is Dinnis Cottage where you can enjoy morning tea.

Third stop, back closer to town was Ross Castle. Probably built in the late 15^th century it is a typical example of the stronghold of Irish Chieftains during the Middle Ages. The castle is believed to be the last significant fortress to fall to Cromwell. It is a tower house surrounded by a ‘bawn’ which is a defensive wall surrounding the large rectangular tower. The bawn had a smaller round tower on each corner. Two of these survive. Ross Castle is located on Lough Leane (Lower Lake) and from here there are boat rides out onto the lake.

We had the bikes for five and a half hours but didn’t do huge kilometres. Just slowly cruising along dodging the jaunting cars and the horse crap on the paths. No wind, lots of sun, and 27 degrees. The lass who served us in Murphy’s Bar kept going on and on about the three days of summer. She’s been waiting two and a half years for this. We have a theory (untested so unproven), that if you came to Ireland for six weeks and only ate in establishments called Murphy’s, you would eat very well.

Whether walking or cycling we usually get to our room mid afternoon. Barbara to lie on the bed and blob, Paul to lie on the bed and blog.