This was a very nice experience which we enjoyed very much. Very relaxing, comfortable and stress free. We only had “carry on” luggage of a small bag each so we walked the 4km from home to the train station. It was a clear, crisp, still morning, just not quite a frost and we were excited to be off on another little adventure.
Only one other passenger boarded at Paraparumu and the train was five minutes early already. The Northern Explorer consisted of a diesel locomotive, a luggage van, a passenger car, a cafe car, two more passenger cars and a covered outdoor observation car. Each of the passenger cars could seat 60 but there were only about that number on the whole train. All those that started in Wellington were in the last two cars and those of us who joined further up the line were put in the front car. We had a four seat pod with a table to ourselves. The seats are comfortable, a bit larger than airline economy seats, but not reclining.
The train is not super quiet and smooth like the fast trains in France but it is not jerky or swaying. Just the usual rumbling train sounds and sqealing from the wheels around tight corners. It seems to have good noise insulation and is warm, light and airy. The windows are huge with only one pillar near the centre of each carriage. The windows curve over as part of the roof as well. The doors between carriages and from the carriage to the outside are all automatic glass sliding doors. There is a platform lift arrangement for getting wheel chairs on and off.
We stopped at Paraparumu, Palmerston North, Ohakune, National Park, Otorohonga, Frankton, Papakura and Auckland. Only at Palmerston and Frankton could you get off for a few minutes and then not to leave the platform. We were ahead of schedule all day and even after waiting about 20 minutes in Frankton still arrived in Auckland 25 minutes early.
There is no food at the station stops, it is all on board in the cafe car. The food is all by Wishbone and pretty good. The usual Wishbone fare: muffins, cookies, cakes, slices, wraps, sandwiches, filled rolls, hot meals (vegetable lasagne, Thai green curry, roast chicken etc), Kapiti ice cream, snacks, bars, tea, coffee, juice, sodas, beer, wine and mixes. It is available all day except for a few minutes at stops as the cafe staff also load and unload the luggage. You can also set up a tab and just pay once at the end of your journey. We went to the cafe car to eat but the train attendant will come to your seat to take your order and bring it to you.
There were only three train attendants and they did everything except drive the train. They did ticketing, luggage, making announcements, manning the cafe, being the barista , cleaning the carriages (at least five times) and answering all questions. They were friendly and attentive and I think one of the best things about the trip. There are overhead TV screens with continuous train tracker maps so you can follow progress. There are also headphones for a commentary and public announcements when approaching stations, points of interest etc.
New Zealand was looking absolutely fabulous. A sunny day, everything lush and green. Millions of cute new born lambs, calves, foals and even a field of goats. The mountains were clear and blanketed in pure, white snow. The train slows at points of interest like the five huge viaducts near Mangaweka, the Hapuawhenua Viaduct near Horopito, the Raurimu spiral etc. You can go out onto the observation car at any time for a blast of cold air and the smell of diesel fumes.
On flat, straight sections we did 100+ km/hr as we overtook cars on the open road. But a lot of the time it was much slower. There is a 870 metre rise to the highest point at Waiouru and a lot of it in the central North Island is twisting and turning. The super fast trains in France and Spain are on flat straight tracks and they make very few stops. This just isn’t possible here without a tremendous amount of earthworks, viaducts and tunnels. The fast European trains run on dedicated tracks that they don’t share with freight or commuter trains. It took us an hour and a half from Pukekohe to Auckland at a very slow speed as there was a commuter train just in front and another just behind.
In Auckland the Northern Explorer used to arrive and depart from Britomart Station, right in the middle of Auckland CBD at the bottom of Queen Street. It now uses The Strand which is at the bottom of Parnell Rise, about 2km from Queen Street. However a complementary shuttle is provided to take you from Parnell to Queen Street. This takes about 10 minutes.
When we arrived in Auckland it was dark but clear and mild. It was 6.25 pm and we had been on the train since 8.45 am. 681 kilometres. A long day but a good one. The Northern Explorer is not the quickest or cheapest way to get from Wellington to Auckland but it is one of the most relaxing and stress free.
