We did not do justice to Ponferrada. This morning we walked around the great medieval castle erected (1248 – 1282) by the Templars. It was not open yet so could not go in. In most towns and cities the yellow arrows we follow do not take the direct route but do a zig zag, dog leg, back tracking path that goes along the fortified walls, through gates, across bridges, by churches and museums, into all the main squares, etc. A mini walking tour of a city. This is what we saw of Ponferrada.

It is a modern city of 69,000 and has a unique micro climate that produces fine wines and is a fertile fruit and vegetable growing area. We left the city via the iron bridge, Pons Forrata, which gives the city its name. The original bridge has been reinforced with iron since the 11th century. Coal and iron ore have been mined here since medieval times.

After walking in the shade along the river and through a very upmarket suburb we stopped for food. Breakfast had been coffee, juice and one piece of toast. We were starving and downed a huge quarter of potato, egg and vegetable tortilla. For two hours we then walked through small market garden plots. Most were small operations say a quarter to a half acre and all very neat. Lots of people were out working the soil and their crops. The farmers were very cheerful with a wave or a hola. You could imagine them coming to the farmers’ market on Saturdays with their produce. This was the best part of the day and it was cool and peaceful.

At midday it was getting hot and we were looking for some shade to have a rest. At a road crossing we spied a grove of trees, a water fountain and a group of peregrinos, and decided to join them. Then we saw the best thing of all. A farmer was selling cherries, 1 euro for a third of a kilo. He was very, very popular. By now the small gardens had given way to huge vineyards and flash looking wineries. It was like this for the rest of the day.

The last two hours from midday were very hot and we were walking on the edge of the road. Where the path did leave the road and went through the vineyards it was lined with sweet smelling roses and near the end of the day, cherry trees. The trees were fully laden with fruit but it was not quite ripe. I wonder if they were planted specially for the pilgrims?

After yesterday’s 10km of downhill we discovered we had new interesting muscles. We don’t like them. They are whingers. They complain all the time. We tell them to shut up and go away. After a while they did. Only to be replaced by some of their whinging friends. These friends are even worse.

Being from temperate Wellington we can do the hills, the wind, the rain and the cool, but our achillies heel is the heat. Anyone planning to walk the Camino Frances in the Spanish summer needs to do some careful planning. For the last two days the temperature has got up to 30. In a month this will rise to 40. If the high temperatures continue we will consider forsaking our prepaid breakfast and start leaving at 6am. Getting the walking done by lunchtime makes it much more pleasant.

This evening Barbara realised we had not had any bananas today. Bananas are our go to snack when we are walking. We try to have one for breakfast and our packs usually have two more each to eat during the day. Any fruit you could possibly want is readily available everyday but bananas work for us.

Ipod tune for today: Yes we have no bananas. By Louis Prima

We have old fashioned tomato
A Long Island potato
But yes we have no bananas
We have no bananas today .