At last the day has come. We are so excited. For months we have been itching to get to this day. We are also a bit apprehensive, this is the most challenging day in the physical sense. Other days will be challenging mentally and emotionally no doubt.

The Route de Napoleon is 26km on a flat map adjusted to 32km to allow for the climb. 1390m of ascent to the top of the Pass. A long and arduous day but also one with beautiful and spectacular views.

A typical French /Spanish breakfast of coffee, juice, toast and bread with jam. Our breakfast wasn’t till 7.30 so we would have some of the last to get away at about 8am. We bought a sandwich on way out of St Jean. This is half a french stick with cheese and ham.

We exited the Porte d’Espagne following in the footsteps of Napoleon and Charlemagne and a few million pilgrims in crossing the Pyrenees.

What an absolute buzz. Perfect weather – hot, sunny and no wind and about 12 degrees at the start. It was pretty clear that the Pass could be brutal at times and even just last week it was very cold with snow and strong winds.

The climb starts from the very first step, gentle at first but steadily getting steeper as you leave the village houses behind. The first two hours (8km) are through lush green farm land with lots of trees, sheep with black faces and curly horns and mainly on a sealed one lane road with a little bit of traffic. We left the road and on a rough stoney track climbed the steepest part of the day for about 3km. It was now about 27 degrees and most people found this part very difficult. We were sweating like pigs but did okay as we are not carrying heavy packs.

In this section we caught up with a lady from Indiana and started talking with her. She was getting very hot and dehydrated and Barbara gave her water from her bottle as we had two each and new we could refill further on. The lady was very, very grateful. Due to the extreme religious enthusiasm of some of the pilgrims I half expect stories to circulate of the Angel Barbara who miraculously appeared and gave succour to a pilgrim in need.

There are only two places to get food and drink today and the first is at a little refugio called Orisson which is at the top of that steep section. We had a coffee and filled our water bottles. There are only three places to get water today, here and at two mountain springs further on. Orisson also has the only toilet for the day. Literally one toilet cubicle. Thousands come over here each day in the summer. Can you imagine the state of it.  And the queues.

From there to the top of the Pass it is steady climbing, back on a sealed road and out in the open. No trees or shelter up here. A farmer had a little van on the side of the road and sold the most expensive bananas, apples, bars and drinks in the world. Barb bought bananas in perfect French.

Besides the spectacular views there are points of interest, a statue of Mary, a cross, a couple of graves and lots of signs and information on height gained, distance gained, distance to go etc.

It is now out in open grass land with wild flowers and cattle and horses roaming freely. They have large bells which go clong clong as they move about. The cows are fat and look more like the build of a hippo. The horses are small with very hairy legs.

At about the 20km mark you cross the border from France to Spain. It’s just a cattle grid on the path and a little sign. No immigration formalities here. This is now all off road on a nice wide trail. You can see it would be very muddy in the rain but for us was hard and compacted.

We came to some snow left over from last week and it was oh so refreshing to rub it over your forehead and round your neck.

More climbing but now through beautiful forest which shelters us from the sun. A little cool whisper of a breeze has also come to assist us. From the top at the Col de Lepoeder it was 5km downhill mostly through beech forest to Roncesvalles, the end of our day.  We could see the monastery at Roncesvalles from the summit and it was a very welcome site.

We started at 8 and finished at 3.30 with a total of about an hour for rests and food. A totally awesome day. At times we were part of a string of people and often on our own.

Our hotel is located inside the monastery which has served pilgrims since 1219. The hotel is very comfortable and brilliantly combines very modern fittings with the heritage original. We had a great meal that came with a bottle of very smooth velvety red wine. This was too nice and against our better judgement finished most of the bottle. I suspect we will regret this in the morning.

We were very pleased with today. Of course we are tired but have no aches and pains and our feet have no blisters or hot spots.

Theme song for today: The Beatles

I’m so tired, I haven’t slept a wink
I’m so tired, my mind is on the blink.