We were a bit reluctant to leave the lovely mill cottage this morning. There were 11 of us staying there, 2 Italians, 2 from USA, 5 Australians and us. We all got on well and had a lovely meal last night and a leisurely breakfast this morning. The food was first class and all produced by the owner Mercedes and her husband.

Barbara was back in her boots today and the blister is so-so. Not getting any worse and hopefully getting better.

Shortly after setting out we came to the Puente de Orbigo one of the longest and best preserved medieval bridges in Spain. It is nineteen arches long and built in the thirteenth century. It carries you across the river Orbigo via the passage of honour Pasa Honroso so called because of the famous 1434 jousting tournament.

A noble night, Don Suero de Quinones, scorned by a beautiful lady, threw down the gauntlet to any knight who dared to pass as he undertook to defend the bridge and his honour. Knights from all over Europe took up the challenge. It became a huge event with royalty, the contestants and their retinue, the curious and thousands of pilgrims all present. Battle tents were pitched, pennants flew, music blared, bells rang, there were banquets and dancing in the flickering torchlight. The jousting went on for several weeks and Don Suero successfully defended the bridge. When 300 lances had been broken it was declared he had proven his fealty to his secret lady, he had defended his honour and was now a free man. He then did a pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela.

During the tournament Don Suero wore an iron collar around his neck as a sign that he considered himself bound to his lady. This collar can be seen in Santiago. I love all these stories of chivalry. It makes crossing yet another old stone arch bridge so much more interesting.

From the bridge we climbed over two reasonable hills which was welcome after the meseta. On the second hill we were on a partly built road. It was all formed and shaped and had the basecouse laid, so was easy to walk on. They were still working on culverts and drains etc so every now and then had to dodge trucks. It was a beautiful walk crossing dry river valleys and passing through woodland of Holm oak.

At the highest point we came to the Abode of the God’s, la Casa de Los Dioses, Cantina. Here David will show you his humble home and provide rest and shade, and free food, fruit and drinks. No donations accepted. This really was an oasis, Barbara says the water mellon was to die for after a long hot climb.

From there a descent down to Astorga where are now. Yet another lovely hotel in a beautiful town, population 12,000. We are on the second floor with a balcony out over the Plaza Espagne, one of several very popular plazas. To our right is the very ornate, Baroque town hall. In the bell tower are two dressed figures of Maragatos who have come out and rung the bell every hour since 1748. Maragatos are a mountain people from west of Astorga.

There is of course a magnificent cathedral, several smaller churches, monasteries, convents, museums (including a chocolate museum) and what I thought was very interesting, Roman ruins. These include what is thought to be a prison, a house and plaza with a large area of mosaic floor, well preserved Roman baths and the remains of the Roman sewerage system.

Astorga is also well known for its Bishop’s Palace. Antonio Gaudi designed this neo-gothic palace and it was constructed between 1889 and 1913. Gaudi was Spain’s most audacious practitioner of Art Nouveau architecture and design. He used innovative forms, exciting mixtures of stone, tile, glass, painting, sculpture and a strident use of colour. His most famous work, the cathedral of Sagrada Familia in Barcelona, commissioned in 1883, is still being completed.

A minor drama this afternoon. I left my Europe electrical plug adaptor in yesterday’s hotel. I tried many places but couldn’t find even a universal adaptor. Friggin siesta from 2 till 5 didn’t help. In the end the gorgeous young lady at reception directed me to an electrical shop, where I bought a Spanish plug and they replaced the NZ plug on my multibox. All for 2 euros and done on the spot while other customers patiently waited. I love the Spanish.

So now I can continue to charge the kindle, the Ipods, the phone, the tablet, the camera, the shaver, the toothbrush etc, etc. The joy of the modern traveller.

Ipod theme tune for the day: Nancy Sinatra’s These boots are made for walking.

These boots are made for walking, and that’s just what they’ll do,
One of these days these boots are gonna walk all over you,
Are you ready boots, start walking.

We were very keen to get back on the road again this morning. Leon is a beautiful and interesting city but we now love the quiet, slow rhythm of walking.

It took about 90 minutes to get out into the countryside. Mostly through residential suburbs so not as tedious as the entry through industrial and commercial areas.

St James was looking after us today. Rain was forecast and there were lots of dark clouds about. At lunchtime we were passing the village of Chozos de Abajo and just on the spur of the moment decided to take a detour and refuel in a cafe. We had only just got in when the heavens opened and it absolutely persisted down for about 15 minutes. When the sun came out we carried on. The sky to our left was black and far off we saw lightning and heard thunder. A few spots got us and we put on our ponchos for a while but we escaped. Barbara says St James wasn’t totally looking after us as there was no papel higienico in the senoras aseos.

Highlight of the day for Barbara was in the village of Vilar de Mazarife. We heard what sounded like someone on bagpipes warming up. In a side street we found a little band, all in traditional costume with bagpipes. I took a photo of them and one guy came running over to us to have his photo taken with Barbara. She thought he was very nice and smiley and stood very close. He smelled wonderful. We already new from one of our camino lady friends (who seemed to be an officionado on all things concerning Spanish men) that they like to smell nice.

North west Spain has a strong Celtic heritage as celts from central Europe settled here and the bagpipes are the traditional musical instrument of Galicia. The bagpipe is called a gaita from the Gothic word gait or gata meaning goat, as the bag of a gaita is made from a whole skinned goat hide.

Today was a long day – 32 kilometres including 10 km that we were scheduled to do tomorrow. At the 22km mark we had the option of going to bar Tio Pepe and phoning our cottage accommodation for a free pick up. Then tomorrow we could be driven back 10km. Or else just skip the 10km and start from here in the morning. We want to walk the full distance so decided to do the 10km today as we were relatively fresh after a rest day. We now have 10km less to do tomorrow. 32 km is the most we will do in a day and we have another one coming up. Today was pretty flat, a nice temperature and a gentle breeze.

We are in a lovely heritage country cottage out in the countryside. It used to be a mill and is built over a canal. Part of the dining room floor is a glass panel directly over the water. When we arrived we were sat down in a cosy living room and offered coffee, Rose wine and cake. There is accommodation for nine and it is very, very pleasant. A total contrast to the large monastery hotel in Leon. Although that was amazing as well. We are so not suffering the way the medieval pilgrims did!

Ipod theme tune for today: On the road again. This time by Canned Heat.

Well I’m so tired of crying
But I’m out on the road again
I’m on the road again

Leon is a unique place for all of you living at home in Wellington New Zealand.

If you go out into your garden and start digging a hole, and go in a straight line through the centre of the earth, you will emerge in Leon. We will wait for you only until after breakfast tomorrow.

On planet Earth, in a straight line, we can’t get further away from you. You do seem so very far away.

We met up with 6 of our camino comrades last night and had dinner in an outdoor restaurant in Plaza San Isadora . It was warm and sunny, and Friday night and a good time was had by all. Most of them are leaving Leon today and we won’t see them again until we catch up in Sarria, in eight days time.

This region and the adjacent Galicia is known for its sea food and I had one of its traditional dishes, pulpo de la Gallega. Octopus with boiled potatoes, paprika and olive oil. The arms of the octopus are sliced across to form rings with the suckers intact and it is just boiled. The potatoes are also cut into thin slices. It didn’t have a strong taste and was soft and tender although apparently it can be chewy and rubbery. It does not taste like squid, more like lobster.

Today we are regular tourists in a city. Barbara says when you are on the Camino you belong, with all the other peregrinos. In a city you are just a tourist, ie a visitor. Leon has far too much history, art and architecture to try and comprehend in a day so we had a superficial look at the cathedral, the parador hotel and the Colegiata San Isadoro.

Our hotel is part of the Colegiata San Isadoro which besides the luxury hotel has a basilica, cloister, museum, monastery, treasury and most importantly the Royal Pantheon. This is the former vestibule of the church and has been turned into a Royal Burial Vault: here lie 33 members of the Leonese Court. 11 kings, 12 queens, 10 princes and 9 counts. The very special and unique feature is the mural paintings on the six vaults that led it to be renamed “The Sistine Chapel of Romanesque Art”.

The Parador hotel is located in a masterpiece of exuberant Renaissance architecture, the San Marcos monastery. The paradors are state owned luxury hotels usually located in heritage buildings. This one excells with a stunning cloister, church, museum and beautiful gardens. Some of our friends from last night stayed here. We had the option of paying for an upgrade to here but decided we would be a little out of place. Not a little, a lot.

The Catedral, begun in 1205, is a fine example of gothic architecture. It was completed in only 50 years so has a very consistent style. Unlike Burgos which is a collection of styles added over centuries. For the most part it copies at two thirds scale Rheims Cathedral in France. The stained glass windows are why Leon is called the “Cathedral without walls”. Leon has more glass and less stone than any other cathedral in Spain. There are 125 stained glass windows set high in the walls giving a stunning lightness of touch. The artists and artisans consciously strove to glorify god, not in timber or stone, but in coloured glass.

There was not quite enough stone and major collapses occurred in the 17th and 19th centuries. Fortunately dedicated and innovative masons and architects were able to prevent total collapse and restore the cathedral.

When we arrived at the cathedral this morning the whole huge square in front was set up as a farmers’ market. A large number of Leonites (Leonese ?) were out buying their fruit and vegies. It gave something of the feel of what it may have been like in medieval times.

We have also spent some time just lying on the bed in the hotel room. It is supposed to be a rest day after all. I think we are a bit more tired than we like to admit. Barbara developed a blister on her heal three days ago. This annoyed her as it came with no warning. No soreness, no hot spot. The last two days on the meseta she wore her Keens sandals and again today in Leon. The blister is healing well, fingers (and toes) crossed. The footwear of choice on the Camino is soft sandals and thick socks. That is until it rains.

Ipod theme tune for today: Far away by Astrud Gilberto

Far away you seem so far away
When it was only yesterday
That you were oh so close to me
.. . . . . .
I only know you’re so far away
You’re long ago, so far away
Far away, so far away.

Day 9 on the meseta

Not a very interesting day today but we enjoyed ourselves none the less. From Mansilla de las Mulas the path was straight out of town and was adjacent a busy road. A constant flow of traffic. Most of the time the path was separate from the road but occasionally we had to walk on the shoulder.

Early on we saw some unusual geological formations off to our right. Large mounds of earth that had been pushed up from the plateau. At our coffee stop we enquired and found out they are colinas – hills. I vaguely remember hills from the distant past. I may have cycled some at home. Apparently we will cross a few more today, and in the coming days, and they will get bigger and be called montanas , mountains.

It is actually a relief to get off the plateau and go over some undulating ground. The legs seem to work better when there is some variation going up and downhill. The unchanging regular stride on flat ground is just so tiring. I may regret saying this in a few days.

The approach to Leon is like any city. Winding in through the detritus of electricity pylons and sub stations, motorway flyovers, petrol stations, wreckers yards, used car yards, hectares of boring warehouses, truck stops. It seems to go on forever. No more wild flowers, even they don’t like being here. Maybe just a few thistles and lupins. An ever increasing drone of noise. Vehicles, machinery, sirens, horns and hammering. The meseta was so beautiful and peaceful.

We know people (they will not be named, what happens on the Camino stays on the Camino) who got a cab today. And we saw others getting on the bus. Their souls will be examined and their weakness bared for all to see at the gates of Santiago de Compostela. A few times today we thought it was a good idea.

You wouldn’t believe it, after crossing the last flyover and entering the city proper there was a large hospital alongside the path, and part of it was an asylum. I imagined the yellow arrows leading right in to Admittance. Plenty of room in the albergue from which you can never leave.

Trudging through the residential suburbs we ran out of oomph. Emotionally as much as physically and took refuge in Restaurante Scorpio. Refuelled with a scorpio burger and freshly squeezed orange juice, a sit down with the shoes off for a while, and a trip to the servicos. All the time we were there a woman stood at the only poker machine and fed it coins.

Finding your hotel in a city is always a bewildering experience. Like walking through a maze with continuous distractions of sights, sounds and smells. In towns and cities we have taken to not immediately trying to find the hotel as soon as we hit town. It is amazing how poor your decision making is with low sugar levels. We now find a cafe or park and have something to eat, get our bearings and usually do much better. We are also not supposed to check in before 2pm so if we are early it helps to fill in the time.

We are now in Leon and have our third and final rest day here tomorrow before a thirteen day push to Santiago. Leon is also the third cathedral city we visit (others: Pamplona and Burgos), the fourth will be Santiago.

Leon was a Roman military garrison and base for its VIIth Legion, hence the name – Leon from Legion.

Because people have slightly different itineraries due to how far they walk each day, we have got out of step with some of our friends. However most people are in Leon tonight so we have been in contact by email and will try and meet for dinner tonight.

Ipod theme tune for today: Hotel California by the Eagles

Last thing I remember, I was
Running for the door
I had to find the passage back
To the place I was before
“Relax” said the night man,
We are programmed to receive,
You can check out any time you like,
But you can never leave.

Day 8 of the meseta madness – aargh!!!

The directions for today were just as “straightforward”  as yesterday.

After 80 minutes we came to the first highlight of the day. The path actually veered slightly to the left! Veer is probably too strong, it was a long gentle curve. This caused some excitement and we had to consult the guide book and map. Sure enough the path moved slightly from the straight and narrow.

After another hour we encountered the mid morning rush hour. 3 cars passed in quick succession, ie within 5 minutes of each other. They were all taxis. I think some people were cheating today.

Along the path, about every kilometre there was a concrete bench. On every one of them someone had sprayed “podemos”  which translates to “we can”.

We walked on our own. Not a person visible ahead or behind. You feel quite an invasion of privacy when someone slowly catches up to you. At one stage we felt hemmed in, one person 50 metres ahead and another 50 metres behind.

Then three things happened at once. The path turned right. It dipped down. And it passed under a subway. This was way too much information to process for a brain that had long gone into hibernation. The roading engineers should have made this three separate actions, about 15 minutes apart.

Tomorrow afternoon we will reach Leon and I am sure the largest building in the city will be a hospice for those traumatised from walking nine days across the meseta.

And then, from out of nowhere, a cafe had found us, soothing our thirst as we leaned on the bar. They had foot long chocolate eclairs filled with custard instead of cream. Oh yes! This little village had an Elvis bar. Very popular, specially in the evenings.

We did have trains for company today. About 2 kilometres off to our left was the track for the AVE, Alta Velocidad Espanola, the Spanish high speed train. This train moves like a bullet and from coming over the horizon in front to disappearing behind takes about 15 seconds. It makes no sound. About 2 kilometres off to our right was another track that took freight trains. These trains are extremely long, move just slightly faster than us, and rumble. They seem to be used mainly for transporting cars.

Tonight we are in a gorgeous little hotel (only has 4 rooms) in the beautiful little town of Mansilla de las Mulas. The name is derived from Mano en Silla – hand on the saddle. The addition of de las Mulas (of the mules) refers to the town’s earlier prominence as a livestock market. It has a 12th century fortified wall that today protects it from invading modernity. There is a large bus station here and some people get the bus to Leon to avoid a long tedious walk through its outskirts.

Five of us arrived at the hotel together and we were welcomed  by a lovely man who checked us in and intimated that our bags hadn’t arrived and that sometimes they got lost. He ushered us into the cute little hotel bar and made us coffee, poured some white wine and provided a cheese and ham sandwich. After consuming this he took us to our rooms where of course our bags were waiting for us.

For only the second time we were able to look inside a cemetery. Again it was a few kilometres outside a village and surrounded by high walls.

The soil here is very fertile looking and red. It must require a lot of water though as there are irrigation ditches everywhere. We crossed a large brand new concrete canal that has not yet carried any water. Someone had scratched 19 Mayo 2016 into the last batch of concrete.

Ipod theme song for the day: We gotta get out of this place by The Animals.

We gotta get out of this place, if it’s the last thing we ever do
We gotta get out of this place, there’s a better life
Don’t you know, don’t you know